Sunday, November 09, 2008
La Fonda Inn
The Inn at the End of the Trail which I think means the end of the Camino Real (the Royal Road) which goes from Mexico City to Santa Fe.
Art Mecca
In terms of Art sales, Santa Fe is second only to New York City. You can't walk anywhere without seeing beautiful sculptures and other works of art, from the most sophisticated to simple folk art made of recyclables. Surprising to me was the preponderance of a type of art called ethnographic. It is the art of various cultures and there are galleries everywhere that focus on art from Africa, Thailand, Indonesian, etc.
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Santa Fe Historic Plaza
The plaza has seen everything from gunfights and hangings to bullfights and political rallies. The old adobe buildings proudly show their age and the architecure unique to this capital city. It was founded in 1680 by Spaniards who were later driven out by the Pueblo people who have lived in the area for 2,000 years. The city's name has been shortened from its' original La Villa Real de la Santa Fe
de San Francisco de Asisi (the Royal City of the Holy Faith of St. Francis of Assisi).
The Palace of the Governors in the plaza is the oldest public building in the US (1610?) and has the distinction of being the seat of 4 regional governments - those of Spain, Mexico, the Confederacy, and the US Territory.
de San Francisco de Asisi (the Royal City of the Holy Faith of St. Francis of Assisi).The Palace of the Governors in the plaza is the oldest public building in the US (1610?) and has the distinction of being the seat of 4 regional governments - those of Spain, Mexico, the Confederacy, and the US Territory.
A Traveller's Heaven: The Travel Bug
Anything to do with travelling, free internet, an expresso bar with biscotti and other pastries all under one roof! It was tough leaving. One wall is dedicated to travel authors and every Saturday the store sponsors free presentations on travel. Another wall has every language dictionary imaginable. I found English-Mongolian plus languages I didn't know existed. One section has every kind of travel and hiking gear. Maps are everywhere as well as globes of every size. Christmas came early this year!
Parking at the Edge of the Universe
Santa Fe has about 68,000 inhabitants, but during the summer this doubles, with all the tourists coming in. Parking is impossible. With this in mind I waited for the coldest day (11 degrees with the wind chill factor) to venture into town to the historic area. Surely on such a cold day everyone will stay home. Wrong! I finally found a spot 10 blocks from my destination, but it was a beautiful spot, next to our Santa Fe river.
For now the river is 2-4 inches wide and perhaps an inch deep, but in spring it becomes a real river from the melted mountain snows. Even now the area around the river is beautiful with parks and picnic tables - a lovely place to walk, even in the cold.
For now the river is 2-4 inches wide and perhaps an inch deep, but in spring it becomes a real river from the melted mountain snows. Even now the area around the river is beautiful with parks and picnic tables - a lovely place to walk, even in the cold.Fall in Santa Fe
Fall may be shortlived since winter can't seem to wait to get here. Last Sunday I saw beautiful sunshine on the drive to the local Borders. As I walked in the front door of the store and turned around, a blizzard came out of nowhere, with the snow blowing perfectly horizontal at 45 mph
. In less than 5 minutes it was gone and the sunshine was back. The clerk told me, "If you don't like the weather in Santa Fe, just wait five minutes and it will change." (Much like when I lived in England!)
Since moving here, daily temperature highs and lows have been at least 30 degrees apart so it has been a challenge layering to anticipate the day's variety. Really need to buy gloves.
An additional thought; this blog is focused on travel, but it is hard to ignore the impact of the recent historical election. I couldn't leave the TV throughout the election process and as the results were announced, I watched with joy as crowds from all over the world cheered the news. As an international traveller during the last 8 years, it has been increasingly difficult to answer questions about the President and the war. The cheering international crowds have given me hope that we travellers will again receive the warm welcomes of previous days. I agree with the eloquent letter to the Editor that Tal Streeter wrote in todays' The New Mexican newspaper:
"As a result (of the election), Americans can walk taller both here and abroad as citizens of the world, preparing with renewed hope for the opportunity of sharing the responsibility for the good health of this precious little blue marble and its inhabitants, our home in the universe."
. In less than 5 minutes it was gone and the sunshine was back. The clerk told me, "If you don't like the weather in Santa Fe, just wait five minutes and it will change." (Much like when I lived in England!)Since moving here, daily temperature highs and lows have been at least 30 degrees apart so it has been a challenge layering to anticipate the day's variety. Really need to buy gloves.
An additional thought; this blog is focused on travel, but it is hard to ignore the impact of the recent historical election. I couldn't leave the TV throughout the election process and as the results were announced, I watched with joy as crowds from all over the world cheered the news. As an international traveller during the last 8 years, it has been increasingly difficult to answer questions about the President and the war. The cheering international crowds have given me hope that we travellers will again receive the warm welcomes of previous days. I agree with the eloquent letter to the Editor that Tal Streeter wrote in todays' The New Mexican newspaper:
"As a result (of the election), Americans can walk taller both here and abroad as citizens of the world, preparing with renewed hope for the opportunity of sharing the responsibility for the good health of this precious little blue marble and its inhabitants, our home in the universe."
Monday, November 03, 2008
Santa Fe Opera Collage
The architecture of the new opera house is controversial but it was impossible to walk anywhere around the site without finding beautiful sweeping lines that jutted out to the surrounding mountains and desert. My favorite architect is Frank Lloyd Wright and the opera embodies one of his basic principles - that the structure should look like it came from the surrounding earth. It is almost an organic extension of its surroundings. When you walk around it, it feels just like that.
Santa Fe Opera Tour
The opera season here is almost the opposite of the New York season. It lasts for 8 weeks from late June to late August with 40 performances.
The opera house itself is surrounded with buildings which house cast and crew in season. I can't wait for the season to start, but doubt if I can afford the opening night tickets that range from $1,700 to $3,000.
The opera house itself is surrounded with buildings which house cast and crew in season. I can't wait for the season to start, but doubt if I can afford the opening night tickets that range from $1,700 to $3,000.The Santa Fe Opera
Many consider the Santa Fe Opera second only to the Metropoliton Opera in New York. This is saying a lot for an opera in a town of 68,000 people but it is born out by numerous publications and guide books, and definitely by any of the locals. Everyone takes great pride in our opera and it is one of many reasons why I decided to move here. One of my first trips after getting settled was to drive north to see it. It took about 20 minutes to get there and the drive, once it leaves the city, is beautiful. It seems to change in the blink of an eye from conjested city to desert surrounded by mountains.
An exit off the main highway takes you winding up a 2 lane road to the opera house itself. I was very lucky because this is not opera season and workers had left the gates open so I helped myself to a tour around the structure.
An exit off the main highway takes you winding up a 2 lane road to the opera house itself. I was very lucky because this is not opera season and workers had left the gates open so I helped myself to a tour around the structure.Xeriscape Santa Fe Style
Because it is part of the high desert, water is scarce and everyone is encouraged to let nature take its' course. Landscapes of naturally growing plants and trees are everywhere, because they have adapted to the dry conditions. Yards are typically rocks or sand with beds of lavender, sun flowers or other wild plants that require almost no water. A few die hards do have grass but they are the exceptions. This is the view of the arroyo from the living room of my house. There are magnificent mountains in the background and a walking path that follows the dry stream bed throughout the neighborhood. In the mountains the aspens are now turning to a brilliant gold as the cold weather approaches. Where did I pack those socks?
On the street where you live....
Almost all houses and businesses in Santa Fe look like variations of the original adobe houses that were here originally over 600 years ago. Building is tightly regulated to give the entire city a historic feel. There is a beautiful historic area in the center of the city, but even suburban
developments like mine adhere to the building guidelines.
developments like mine adhere to the building guidelines.Santa Fe Casa
The inside of the house is filled with light, and there is plenty of light in a city that is almost 8,000 feet above sea level. The living room has 30 foot ceilings with pine beams running across the width. Most houses have the same type of fence outside made of bundled sticks. It is
called a "coyote fence" for obvious reasons. The desert area has coyotes as well as mountain cats and other interesting critters.
called a "coyote fence" for obvious reasons. The desert area has coyotes as well as mountain cats and other interesting critters.Mi Casa in Santa Fe
To check out Santa Fe to see if it is everything the travel books say it is, I flew out. Checking out the different neighborhoods I found a small house on the edge of an arroyo (a natural valley made by a stream). Like all structures in Santa Fe it is adobe in a pastel color to match the surroundings. I fell in love and within 3 weeks I was moving in.
Monday, October 27, 2008
Come With Me to Santa Fe!
I've moved to Santa Fe, New Mexico and invite you to join me as I explore this beautiful new country. I use the word "country" intentionally, because even though it is in the U.S., it is one of 4 U.S. cities that I feel are so unique, they are almost like foreign countries. I include Santa Fe with New Orleans, San Francisico, and New York.
So many friends have asked me, "Why Santa Fe?"
In short, it is a place that called to me. Over the years I have made road trips across the US many times and each time that I drove through New Mexico, I was drawn to its barren and sweeping landscape. It is from another time. There is a reason it is called the Land of Enchantment. In addition, I have flown into Albuquerque (yes, I had to look up the spelling), to drive north to ski Taos. Each time I was captured by the country and its history. The Taos pueblos are still occupied as they have been for 1,000 years. This is a place where we anglos are the new intruders to a country where the original American Indian and Mexican settlers have lived since before Columbus discovered America.
I am not alone in feeling such a strong pull to this area. In the 1920s, D.H. Lawrence wrote, "The moment I saw the brilliant proud morning shine over the hills of Santa Fe, something stood still in my soul."
The Indians called this area the Dancing Ground of the Sun. It is an expanse that begs your reverence and allows you to "meet the sky for the first time."
Please join me as we explore this unique land.
ramblinme
So many friends have asked me, "Why Santa Fe?"
In short, it is a place that called to me. Over the years I have made road trips across the US many times and each time that I drove through New Mexico, I was drawn to its barren and sweeping landscape. It is from another time. There is a reason it is called the Land of Enchantment. In addition, I have flown into Albuquerque (yes, I had to look up the spelling), to drive north to ski Taos. Each time I was captured by the country and its history. The Taos pueblos are still occupied as they have been for 1,000 years. This is a place where we anglos are the new intruders to a country where the original American Indian and Mexican settlers have lived since before Columbus discovered America.I am not alone in feeling such a strong pull to this area. In the 1920s, D.H. Lawrence wrote, "The moment I saw the brilliant proud morning shine over the hills of Santa Fe, something stood still in my soul."
The Indians called this area the Dancing Ground of the Sun. It is an expanse that begs your reverence and allows you to "meet the sky for the first time."
Please join me as we explore this unique land.
ramblinme
Thursday, April 10, 2008
Buenos Aires; A few Corrections
I asked Natalin, my Evita tour guide in Buenos Aires, to check the accuracy of the information about Argentina in my blog. Here are a few corrections she made;
1. The soccer stadium I showed belongs to Boca Juniors and the neighborhood of elegant faded mansions surrounding it is called La Boca.
2. Lorenzo (the 80 Year old pictured) was a friend of Evita's but they did not work together.
3. The Evita Items displayed were not from Lorenzo's private collection, but were collected by all the people who worked in the building with Evita "as an honor to her and all the workers."
Also important is that Natalin asked that we don't let the actions of one hotel desk clerk spoil the impression of her country. I would agree!
Thanks to Natalin for the great tour and also the follow-up to make sure that my blog is accurate.
If you plan to go to Buenos Aires, Natalin and her tour company Travelline are highly recommended!
Here is her contact information:
http://www.travelline.com.ar/
Happy Trails....
1. The soccer stadium I showed belongs to Boca Juniors and the neighborhood of elegant faded mansions surrounding it is called La Boca.
2. Lorenzo (the 80 Year old pictured) was a friend of Evita's but they did not work together.
3. The Evita Items displayed were not from Lorenzo's private collection, but were collected by all the people who worked in the building with Evita "as an honor to her and all the workers."
Also important is that Natalin asked that we don't let the actions of one hotel desk clerk spoil the impression of her country. I would agree!
Thanks to Natalin for the great tour and also the follow-up to make sure that my blog is accurate.
If you plan to go to Buenos Aires, Natalin and her tour company Travelline are highly recommended!
Here is her contact information:
http://www.travelline.com.ar/Happy Trails....
Thursday, April 03, 2008
So Good to Be Home!!!!
Several surprises greeted me at home. First, the Kitties were beside themselves with joy that I had returned. One of them almost woke up from her nap! Secondly I discovered that just outside of my condo balcony, the the first ever beach marathon (26.2 miles) was being held to raise money for breast cancer. Thousands of people from all over the world were participating and made it a huge success.
I spent a lot of the day trying to find out who had won the Super Bowl and that evening a full moon greeted me. All in all, a nice welcome
home.
The South American trip is over but I plan to continue the blog, adding bits from time to time about travelling in general. Also, I still hope to visit Abu Simbel Egypt in October for the special sunrise ceremony and hopefully put together another trip around the world for the end of this year.
In closing, a quick note about this blog. Because everything I write is in reverse order and previous contents are listed by date, not title, I want to give a quick summary of what's in the blog, especially if someone is just tuning in.
Below is a travel summary and photos of my first visits to Brazil, Chile, Paraguay, and Argentina. Photo Albums of the South American trip can be found at;
http://picasaweb.google.com/ramblinme
After the South American trip entries are descriptions and photos of a trip I took around the world to Peru, Egypt, Russia, India, Madagascar, Kenya, Tanzania, Bhutan, Tibet, China, and Hong Kong. Everywhere I travel I try to go to countries I haven't visited before, so much of the blog is a first timer's perspective.
I hope that you enjoy the blog and that you will continue to travel along with me.
Happy Trails
I spent a lot of the day trying to find out who had won the Super Bowl and that evening a full moon greeted me. All in all, a nice welcome
home.The South American trip is over but I plan to continue the blog, adding bits from time to time about travelling in general. Also, I still hope to visit Abu Simbel Egypt in October for the special sunrise ceremony and hopefully put together another trip around the world for the end of this year.
In closing, a quick note about this blog. Because everything I write is in reverse order and previous contents are listed by date, not title, I want to give a quick summary of what's in the blog, especially if someone is just tuning in.
Below is a travel summary and photos of my first visits to Brazil, Chile, Paraguay, and Argentina. Photo Albums of the South American trip can be found at;
http://picasaweb.google.com/ramblinme
After the South American trip entries are descriptions and photos of a trip I took around the world to Peru, Egypt, Russia, India, Madagascar, Kenya, Tanzania, Bhutan, Tibet, China, and Hong Kong. Everywhere I travel I try to go to countries I haven't visited before, so much of the blog is a first timer's perspective.
I hope that you enjoy the blog and that you will continue to travel along with me.
Happy Trails
P.S.Curitiba, Brazil
Recently I received these gorgeous photos from Daniel Herthal. I met Daniel and his son on the train tour from Curitiba, Brazil to Morretes
and he was kind enough to share his photos. Even though Daniel and son were tourists that day, he actually is the director of his own tour company. Here is contact information for him;
www.andritur.com.br or
andritur@andritur.com.br
and he was kind enough to share his photos. Even though Daniel and son were tourists that day, he actually is the director of his own tour company. Here is contact information for him; www.andritur.com.br or
andritur@andritur.com.br
Journey's End - Farewell South America
The beautiful city of Buenos Aires was the final stop on my trip to South America. The trip seemed to go by in a blur. Travelling back to Jacksonville Beach, Florida took almost 40 hours, partially due to my bad planning and partially because using frequent flyer miles puts you at the mercy of available seats and flights. Visiting Brazil, Paraguay, Chile, and Argentina for the first time was an extraordinary experience for me.
Thank you for all the comments and encouragement you sent during the trip and for travelling along with me through this blog. Happy Trails....
Thank you for all the comments and encouragement you sent during the trip and for travelling along with me through this blog. Happy Trails....Faded Glory-Buenos Aires Soccer Stadium Neighborhood
The beautiful old buildings surrounding the soccer stadium hint at the exquisite buildings and wealthy neighborhood that once existed there. There are some attempts to bring them back, but many look deserted and covered with graffiti.
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