Monday, November 10, 2008
Nambe Officer
On the final stretch to the Nambe Pueblo I was stopped by this gentleman, an officer with the Nambe tribe who warned me about taking pictures. I charmed him into letting me take his picture, but I behaved during the rest of the trip on the reservation. Like the previous pueblo, the Nambe Pueblo was arranged around a central dirt covered square with the oldest part of the pueblo on one side. The church was much smaller than the Teseque pueblo church and was tucked into a corner. The homes on the other 2 sides were larger and newer. Even so, it felt like stepping back in time. It was completely still and silent, with no one in sight.
Sacred Heart Church, Nambe Indian Reservation
Continue travelling north from the Teseque Reservation and you will run into the Nambe Indian reservation. As you drive into town you are greeted by this beautiful Catholic Church at the top of the highest hill. The town is beautiful with modern adobe homes everywhere. Again I continued on, searching for the Nambe Pueblo.
Trip to Teseque
Take the highway north toward Taos and you will travel through at least 3 Indian reservations. Teseque, the closest one to Santa Fe, is near the Santa Fe Opera House and is host to a huge flea market on weekends. During any visits to the Flea Market or any of the Indian Pueblos, cameras are strictly prohibited. If you are caught taking pictures the cameras will be confiscated.
The flea market covered several acres and was a treasure of artwork (both local and international), carpets, jewelry, clothing, furniture, food, etc. Everything seemed to come with a story. A table I looked at was expensive because "it was used in a covered wagon coming across the US." The stories were priceless.
Driving on to find the Teseque Pueblo was an adventure. The sign on the main highway was huge, but once I took the exit, any signs disappeared. I spent an hour driving back roads (many of them dirt) before I finally found my way to the pueblo. In general, pueblos are usually multistory adobe dwellings built around a central courtyard. The Teseque Pueblo had a beautiful Catholic Church as one side of the square and another side was the original ancient two story adobe building. The other two sides were newer adobe homes. I walked through the center square of swept dirt to get a good look at the Church and was struck by the absolute silence. I didn't see or hear anyone. Dogs were sleeping near each of the houses but none made a sound. In a way I felt that I was intruding in a private part of the lives of the people who live there.
Tomorrow the tribe will hold a special dance at the Pueblo and I'm hoping that I can find my way back there. This time the public is invited.
The flea market covered several acres and was a treasure of artwork (both local and international), carpets, jewelry, clothing, furniture, food, etc. Everything seemed to come with a story. A table I looked at was expensive because "it was used in a covered wagon coming across the US." The stories were priceless.
Driving on to find the Teseque Pueblo was an adventure. The sign on the main highway was huge, but once I took the exit, any signs disappeared. I spent an hour driving back roads (many of them dirt) before I finally found my way to the pueblo. In general, pueblos are usually multistory adobe dwellings built around a central courtyard. The Teseque Pueblo had a beautiful Catholic Church as one side of the square and another side was the original ancient two story adobe building. The other two sides were newer adobe homes. I walked through the center square of swept dirt to get a good look at the Church and was struck by the absolute silence. I didn't see or hear anyone. Dogs were sleeping near each of the houses but none made a sound. In a way I felt that I was intruding in a private part of the lives of the people who live there.
Tomorrow the tribe will hold a special dance at the Pueblo and I'm hoping that I can find my way back there. This time the public is invited.
Chile Rules
Any request in any restaurant will come with chiles. The only question to answer is "green or red?" I have never been a fan of anything hot, but as a matter of survival, I am learning to eat everything with chiles. At the Farmers' Market the following came with Chile, whether requested or not: bread, quiche, goat's cheese, Christmas wreaths, every flavor of jelly, and peanut brittle. Take it from me - peanut brittle with chile is an other worldly experience.
Farmer's Market
Back Indoors....
Sunday, November 09, 2008
La Fonda Inn
Art Mecca
In terms of Art sales, Santa Fe is second only to New York City. You can't walk anywhere without seeing beautiful sculptures and other works of art, from the most sophisticated to simple folk art made of recyclables. Surprising to me was the preponderance of a type of art called ethnographic. It is the art of various cultures and there are galleries everywhere that focus on art from Africa, Thailand, Indonesian, etc. .
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