Mists over Huaqing Palace, Xi'an China 

Huaqing Palace, Xi'an, China 

One of he buildings of the Huaqing Palace, Xi'an China. 

Xi'an China; All the King's Horses and all the King's Men

Just before leaving Mumbai, the devastating quake hit Pakistan and parts of India. I didn't want my Brother Eddie to worry, so I gave him a call. Unfortunately my math was off and I called him at 3am his time. Eddie wasn't worried. Eddie was asleep and oblivious to anything going on in the world. Timing is everything....From Mumbai I flew to Hong Kong and then a quick trip to Xi'an China, a very special place for me. I was in graduate school in March 1974 when I picked up a copy of Time magazine with a picture of the terra cotta warriors from Xi'an on the cover. Six local farmers had been digging a well when they discovered a piece of terra cotta which led to what many feel is the greatest archeological find of the twentieth century. This led to the excavation of the burial grounds of Emporer Qin Shi Hung (259-210 bc), the first emporer to unify the 7 warring states into what is now China. He became King at the age of 13 and spent most of his reign and his country's money on preparing for his afterlife. The project took 720,000 workers and 39 years to complete. In order to protect him in the afterlife, he had over 7,000 life-sized terra cotta horses and armoured warriors created as well as more than 100 wooden charriots and many exquisite ancient weapons. To me the most fascinating aspect of the find is that each warrior is an individual - they are all different and each one was possibly modelled after real soldiers in his army. The details are exquisite. Since seeing the original magazine article, I have seen numerous pictures, but I wasn't sure how they would be displayed. My "terra cotta warriors" guide, who called himself Nebraska, led me to an enormous gymnasium-type structure that covered the area of 3 football fields. Walking inside, I found the warriors lined up in military precision facing me, looking up from the furrow created to free them from the earth. The effect is profound: the silent warriors who have been hidden for so long are standing in formation in a kind of half-light that protects them from fading. It was worth the wait! No amount of imagination can prepare you for that first impact. I spent hours taking pictures of all 3 sites. Even though 100s of archeologists have been working on the site since the 70s, most of the work is ahead. The work is painstaking and the warriors greeting you have all been constructed from the shards found at that location. ......After several hours, I bid Nebraska good by and headed on to the next stop; the actual grave site of Emporer Qin Shi Hung, just down the road from his warrior protectors. A very quick tour there and then on to the final part of the day, a visit to Huaqing Palace. Originally the palace was built by Chinese Emporers to take advantage of a natural hot springs flowing there. What made it famous was the great love affair between Emporer Li Long ji and Lady Yang. The Emporer had 1000s of concubines when he noticed and fell in love with Lady Yang. She was the 18 year old concubine of his son, but the son, seeing that his father was in love, gave Lady Yang to him as a gift. The emporer was so in love with her that they would spend months at the Huaqing Palace, singing, dancing, playing cards, and soaking in the tubs fed by the hot springs. (I think this is where the concept of California was born). The story also has political intrigue and the Emporer was forced to kill Lady Yang by cutting her throat. He lived the rest of his life in misery, missing her terribly, but after his death they were once again reunited in love - or so the story goes.....Romance nothwithstanding, I had to say farewell to Xi'an and board a plane for Tibet. Stay tuned and happy trails......Marion

Took tooks in the rain in India. 

A Mumbai favorite of mine - the laundry; 700 men doing laundry at all hours. All laundry from Mumbai comes here. My laundry was somewhere in there and they did an incredible job! 

Each man pays a fee for the use of a stall and for the water he uses. In turn he is payed piece work for the laundry he washes. Men also do all of the ironing. Notice the guy in the last stall to the right. Time to buy more water!!! 

A quick look at the beauty of Elephant Island in Mombai, India. 

Punja and I aboard the water taxi to Elephant Island, Mumbai, India. 

The Gateway to India in Mumbai, India. To the left is the Hotel where Clinton stayed during one of his visits. The Indians seem very proud of his visit. The boat in foreground is one of the taxis that take you to Elephant Island, and ancient Hindu religious shrine. 

Samples of the gorgeous architecture built by the British in Mumbai, India. 

Victoria Terminus, a gorgeous example of Italian Gothic architecture built by the British in Mumbai, India. 

Puja, travel guide extraordinairre, in Mumbai, India, sitting in the lobby of my favorite hotel, Ley Royal Meridian. 

Return to India and a Visit to Mumbai (formerly known as Bombay)

The 3 days in Bhutan ended much too quickly. My recommendation for anyone planning to visit - take at least a week. In 3 days most of the trip (80% ???) involves driving from place to place, leaving you little time for sightseeing and getting to know the people....Leaving Bhutan, the last wild ride to the airport took over 5 hours and included a mad search for an ATM in the small towns in India on the way to the airport. It was great fun showing Kinsang his first ATM and how it worked. Sign seen on the way to the airport; "It's a highway - Not a runway - Don't take off." Great advice when you are driving on a single lane winding around a mountain at 9,000 ft.... The flight to Mumbai brought me to the nicest hotel I have ever experienced - Le Royal Meridian. Imagine if the Four Seasons took over the Taj Mahal. The hotel experience alone was worth the trip: major pampering at 1/3 the cost of the Four Seasons. They had to force me to leave, kicking and screaming. Delhi may be the capital of India, but Mumbai is the financial and trade center. It is a huge bustling city on a beautiful harbor, filled with spectacular 200 year old British architecture. For the first time on my trip, my guide was female, a wonderful woman named Puja. The majority of people in India are Hindu and so much of Indian culture is intertwined with Hindu beliefs. Puja had a passion for the subject and brought so much of ancient India alive for me, especially the ferry trip to Elephant Island (an ancient Hindu holy site). Elephant Island is also the home of countless monkeys. My last image of the island was a monkey sitting beside me drinking a can of orange Fanta, just like any other tourist....Most of the time in Mumbai, however, I was on my own exploring. A took took (3 wheeled golf cart/taxi) took me to a "shopping center" - translation 3 story store about the size of a CVS. Fun shopping but the trip back brought an extra challenge - no one wanted to take me back to the hotel. I showed the card with the hotel name and address to 4 drivers and each said "no." Finally a kind stranger (like the ones I have always depended upon), had a lengthy animated discussion with one of the drivers and he agreed to take me. Unfortunately he took me to the wrong hotel and had no idea where my hotel was located. At this point we drew a huge crowd of took took drivers. They all said they knew how to get to my hotel and would take me for a price, but no one was willing to help my driver with instructions. I finally called the hotel and the desk clerk gave the driver instructions (in Hindi) and we were off in the right direction. He was going to charge me $2.00 for the 2 hour adventure but my conscience made me pay him much more for the effort.....Next stop - Hong Kong, and visits to Xi'an China and Tibet. Namaste, Marion

Temple in the sky in Bhutan. 

Dirving in Bhutan was an adventure in and of itself. This is the part of the road that is under construction. It is also the only road between the two major cities and was created by blasting into the rock on the side of the mountain. Three times a day the traffic is stopped for 2 hours so that work crews can continue blasting. All travel has to be timed around the blasting schedule. 

Archery is the national sport of Bhutan and the game is accompanied with traditional dancing before, during, and after the competition 

One of the many exquisite Bhuddist Temples in Bhutan 

The gateway separating India from Bhutan. 

This is Kinzang wearing his Goh. Law dictates that all men must wear the traditional Bhutanese Goh. 

Kinzang, my guide in Bhutan and all-around great guy (in his civies). 

Bhutan: The Secret and Gaurded Treasure

My first morning in Bhutan was a tad startling when Kinzang showed up in a dress. Actually it was the national outfit for men called a "Go." Having seen no pictures of the people and knowing nothing about the culture, it took me by surprise. After that, I realized how good it looks; somewhere between a short kimona and the outfit worn by samurai warriors. Walking out of the hotel, I saw that all men were wearing gos and the women where wearing floor length skirts topped with blouses, (much simpler than the saris worn by the women of India). It turns out that wearing the traditional go is mandated by law and you can be fined for not wearing it, (fashion police?). Also, the entire country is smokefree, but I could smoke in my room....At first I found all of the restrictions hard to understand, but after experiencing the country, I realize why so much is being done to protect it. It is a place frozen in time within the unparalleled beauty of the green mountains. There is so much dignity and pride in the people. Perhaps because the country is primarily Buddhist, I found myself settling in to the calm zen-like rythm of the country. Everyone smiles and waves and the country is filled with lovely Bhuddist shrines, temples, and prayer flags. Homes are decorated in the unique designs that remind me of the mountainous areas of Nepal and Tibet. Personally, I'm torn over the fight against change in Bhutan. You can't find Visa, Master, or American Express cards, ATMs, convenience stores, chain restaurants, American type stores, etc., but after being there - it is easy to see why they work so hard to protect what they have. There are no easy answers. For now, it is a rare opportunity to see and experience life on much simpler terms, in a gorgeous setting......Next stop - back to India for a week in Mumbai (formerly known as Bombay) before heading to Hong Kong.....Namaste, Marion

The Exclusive Club Known as the Kingdom of Bhutan

If I had been following the rules for entering the Kingdom of Bhutan, I would never have gotten in. Bhutan may be the toughest country to enter. (1) You cannot enter Bhutan without being part of a tour and all tours are run by Bhutanese agencies. (2) You cannot enter Bhutan without flying on the government sponsored Druk Airlines which has 2 planes and lands only in the one airport in Para, Bhutan on its' one landing strip. By the time my money had transferred to the travel agency, I had already bought an airline package for 4 stops in India. Since Bhutan is surrounded on 3 sides by India, I thought I could use this package to get to Bhutan. At the last minute I was informed that I couldn't enter without flying on Druk Air. At this point I threw the international equivalent of a hissy fit and the tour guide agreed to drive to Bagdogra India to pick me up. Kinzang the guide and Nobbin the driver met my plane at the airport and they were, to use a technical term, real hotties. They were both dressed very preppy in golf shirts and kakhis.....Every country I visit seems to ratchet up the driving difficulty level and the ride from Bagdogra India to Phuntsholing Bhutan was no exception. Before reaching the border, we experienced all the fun of driving in India - streets filled with people, every kind of animal, Took Tooks (Indian Taxis), carts, motorcycles, bicycles, potholes, etc. Things got tougher, however when we crossed the border into Bhutan. Almost automatically, it became mountainous (VERY steep mountains), with roads cut out of rock on the sides of the mountains to create a 1 lane road. Driving rain started as soon as we crossed the border. Much of the road wasn't paved or it was filled with potholes. This meant driving through muddy lanes sometimes filled from the rock and mud slides. Everytime we had to drive around an oncoming truck I wondered if the muddy shoulders would hold. Like most of Bhutan, Kinzang and Nobbin are both Buddhists, which means no drinking, smoking, etc. In every country so farI've been good about honoring that countries beliefs, but not here! I was so stressed that I was smoking with one hand and drinking out of a bottle of Chardonnay with the other. Don't be surprised if Bhutan announces a ban on all American women. And yes Dennis, it would be all about me....... Happy Trails, Marion (hic !)

No agra in Agra

After my exciting trip from Delhi to Agra (see last blog), it was a relief to finally check into the Taj View Hotel. True to its' name, the hotel provided me a "room with a view." In the evening haze the Taj Mahal looked like part of a dream. To quote my guidebook, "Its' perfect proportions and exquisite craftmanship have been described as, 'a vision, a dream, a poem, a wonder.'"...A 6am pickup and Bishan the driver and I headed to the Taj Mahal to watch the sun rise on this beautiful white marble creation. It was one of those experiences where it is difficult to think about taking pictures: it seemed more important to just experience the white shimmering beauty of the place. Unintentionally, I arrived in Agra just in time to celebrate the 350th anniversary of the Taj Mahal. It was built by by the leader Shah Jahan as a memorial to his wife who died in childbirth. It is open at night during the full moon (a photographer's dream), but my timing was off on this one.....Agra is so well known for the Taj Mahal, that I was surprised by our trip to the Agra Fort - a massive red sandstone fortress, complete with high walls, turrets, and a moat. It was built (1565-1578) by Shah Akbar and, unfortunately, it served as his prison for the last 8 years of his life, following one of the many invasions of India. I was intrigued by the Shah's solution to where his daughters could store their jewelry. They each have a large room with indentations built solely as a "jewelry box." We should all have this problem!......From Agra, I flew to Bagdogra, India for the tour guide and driver from the Kingdom of Bhutan to "fetch" me. Bhutan is a country like no other.......Happy Trails, Marion

In India, it is definitely not the destination, it's the journey!!!

The road from Delhi to Agra (best known for the Taj Mahal), is the major highway connecting the two cities. Thousands of tourists travel this route all year long. That's why I was surprised at my experience on the drive between the 2 cities. It redefined chaos. In India cows are considered sacred and they are allowed to roam anywhere they wish, including the middle of a busy highway. Since no one is eating the cows and since there are no fences that keep them in or out, they are everywhere, and sometimes in great numbers. In addition the roads are filled with 1000s of tock tocks; the Indian taxi. It is a three wheeler, the size of a golf cart. It has a tin roof, but no sides. It's an easy target for cars and buses, but the drivers are fearless and oblivious to anything happening around them. In general, no one obeys any traffic rules. The one with the most bravado usually can get in front, but the concepts of traffic lights, signs, or lanes hasn't taken hold yet. Add to the mix 100s of hand pulled carts, camel pulled carts, scores of people aimlessly walking down the road or sitting on the curbs, pigs, sheep, chickens, goats, ducks, etc., walking in the road and you have the grand slam of obstacle courses. Also, everyone is driving at top speed and they are compelled to pass each other. Even though it's only a 4 hour drive, there are numerous toll roads as well as a stop where Bishan the driver had to get out of the car and walk to a government office to pay a road tax. As he left, he warned me to keep the windows rolled up and not to open the doors until he returned. I could not make up the following! A Man with a giant trained brown bear on a leash came up to the car and had the bear do his full range of tricks. Then a guy came over with 2 monkeys in dresses and they went through their repoirtoire. Also, the two acts combined for their encore, with the monkeys riding around on the bears back. They were joined by a snake charmer who played his flute for the cobra (in basket # 1) and the python (in basket # 2). This was followed by a guy who was selling jewelry and he started screeching his nails on the car windows saying over and over again, "Mam, jewelry Mam, please." The last was a guy with shriveled legs who came over to the car and began screeching on the windows on the other side of the car. At one point all of them were screeching on the windows and begging simultaneously. It was my worst nightmare! Bishon finally returned, got in the car, buckled up, and off we went. He turned to me and asked"Was everything OK?" "Just fine," I said......Next stop, the Taj Mahal and Agra (finally). Happy Trails, Marion

India Called

For as long as I can remember India has fascinated me. In college I thought seriously about transferring to the University of New Delhi and even took courses in Sanskrit, the ancient Indian language. However love struck and I married. India was put on hold, until now. It's amazing being here after all these years. India declared its' independence from the British on Aug 15, 1947, but touring Delhi shows that the British presence is still felt. All the roundabouts, driving on the other side of the road, and all of the major government buildings and monuments in Delhi were built by the British. My guide Johann and driver Bishan spent most of a day showing me the standard tour of British buildings, when I asked to see the real India, not the tourist India. Johann seemed pleased at this request and we were off to Jama Masdid/ Chandi Chowk, the huge wholesale market place in old Delhi. It was a ride! The only way that you can really see it is by bicycle driven rickshaw. As you ride along watching everything on earth being sold, the traffic continues to get increasingly conjested. This is because at every turn, the lanes get narrower until there is barely room for one rickshaw to pass. It was a blur of colors, smells of incense, crushing traffic, spider webs of old electrical lines overhead (which do fall at times). The poor rickshaw driver must have weighed 90 pounds and he was vigorously pulling me and the guide. Since I've been eating my way around the world we tipped him an outrageous amount. (I was trying to pay by the pound!) Before leaving Delhi, I was fortunate to see the tomb that was actually the model for the Taj Mahal; Humeyun's Tomb. Instead of white marble, it is made out of red sandstone, but the basic architecture is the same. The ruler of the time was married to a Persian woman, and when he died, she had the Tomb built to house his remains and pay tribute to him. The tomb was the first Persian architecture in India. From each side of the tomb everything is exactly the same; the formal gardens, the entryways, the building layout, as well as the towers. It was interesting to visit this temple first before seeing the beautiful Taj Mahal....
In signing off for Delhi, I say "Namaste" a greeting that my friend Pam taught me many years ago. It has remained my all time favorite greeting. You can use it to say hello, goodbye, or a variety of other things. Basically it means,"May the God that is within me, greet the God that is within you." Namaste, and on to Agra and the Taj Mahal. Marion

Farwell to Russia, Much Too Soon!

The travel writer who wrote my guide to Russia, obviously got off the plane in the wrong place...... perhaps Outer Mongolia??? Moscow was nothing like the description that I faithfully learned in preparation for coming here. My favorite bad advice that he gave is that I should dress all in black and not wear anything conspicuous. Also, instead of a purse, I should carry a plain plastic bag. Talk about "conspicuos;" if I had followed his advice I would have really stood out, especially compared to all the women wearing Versace clothes, Jimmy Choo shoes, and Gucci handbags. Another piece of his advice was to beware of bands of women who might attack and rob me. The only bands of women I saw were the ones trying to get into Escada for a sale. I have to admit that before arriving I was fearful. The advice from the handbook and growing up with Russia being the anti-American superpower made me nervous about venturing out from the hotel on my own. The ride from the airport didn't help either. The architecture everywhere is intimidating; everything is huge and ponderous. It's all designed on such a gigantic scale. Even the main roads are 12 lanes wide with traffic going all the time. The first day I did make all kinds of excuses to myself; I have a cold, I have to catch up on my blog, I speak only 3 words of Russian and I don't know the Cerrilian alphabet. Also, when I checked into the hotel, the 2 Brittany Spearlettes at the front desk had a ball making sport of me. Finally though, I started meeting folks like Yana, who ran the internet center of the hotel. She spoke great English and also was incredibly helpful and friendly. At one point, I tried to tip her and she declined and said" No, I want you to know that Russians are friendly and that you receive good customer service." Guess who I would put into place as manager of the hotel?.... Finally, the second day, I got the courage to leave the nest and walked to Red Square. Nothing can describe it. It would take a week to see it all and I walked away feeling that I had touched an important piece of the history of my lifetime. The 2nd day was time for whimsy. The week before I left Florida, a piece appeared in the local paper about a Harley Davidson store that had opened that month in Moscow. There was no address, just the name of a high end shopping area near the River. I had a cab drop me in the general area and after a good walk, I found it! It was like old home week. I showed everyone there the article and they had to have copies. I took lots of goofy pictures of all of us and I didn't leave without a "Harley Davidson - Moscow sweatshirt." I'm sure I'll be the only one in Florida, and possibly the only one in the US with a Moscow H-D product....To sum up my time in Moscow, it was so much like being in Paris, only larger, more friendly, and cleaner. The city is immaculate. I didn't even see a cigarette butt anywhere. And despite the language issue, people try to communicate. A cab driver and I laughed the entire trip at our attempts to speak each others' language. We finally settled on the little German we both knew......Sadly,today I must say Dostyvania (good bye) to Russia and also Spaseeba (thank -you) for a lovely time. It's off to the airport for an overnight in Milan, Italy and then on to Delhi, India.....Signing off with hopes for Happy Trails for you, Marion

What's the Worst Thing That Can Happen?

My introduction to Tansania was jarring. After all the smiling and "Jambos" of Kenya, everyone in Tansania seemed so reserved. Although they spoke the same language (Swahili) my few words elicited no response except glares. There was a curiosity about me and when I looked away people would actually turn and stare. When I looked up they would look away. We played a kind of peekaboo game the entire time of my visit. Hours of good clean fun. The exception was my introduction to Daniel my guide and Bashir, the driver. Daniel spoke very good English after living in Chicago and Tennessee. Bashir's English was almost as good and the 2 of them helped me get to know the city and surrounding areas. One overall impression was the beauty of the women. They all had the grace and poise of ballet dancers. I'm guessing that it's the result of learning to balance heavy loads on their heads from a very early age. In addition you may see a woman balancing an extraordinary load on her head, a baby in a sling on her back, and carrying a huge bundle. As Daniel said jokingly, "The woman does all the work, the men do nothing!" In addition to the flowing graceful walk, all of the women have on vivid colorful patterned wraps that cover the head and flow to the ground. This may be all one pattern or 3 separate bold patterns with distinctive patterns and colors. No 2 dresses looked alike. It was clear that I couldn't photograph the women's fashions with their knowledge, so I tried discretely taking pictures when they walked by.......As to the worst thing that can happen ; when I arrived at the airport to leave for Russia, I had to wait for 5 hours in the un-airconditioned airport before being told that my reservations had been cancelled. And not just for this leg of the trip! All of my reservations for the entire trip going forward had been cancelled. After getting through the shock, I took a cab back to the hotel (by then it was midnight) and spent the rest of the night trying to get things straightened out. My cell phone bill is probably higher than the cost of this entire trip. Finally, sometime the next day, I found 2 people who really helped me. Michael from Global Assist from American Express was the first kind voice I heard who really seemed to want to help. He stayed on the line as he transferred me to the right Delta line. While we were waiting for them to come on the line he talked and joked with me and it made all the difference. Someone out their cared. Also, Mary Hunt at Delta was great. My original reservations took almost a week to put together, but she was able to restore everything in 30 minutes, as well as getting me to Russia on a flight that evening. I'm still getting over the fear of having all my mail forwarded to Tansania and how do I get the cats there and will they like it. But now it's time to get out and see Moscow. Счастливого пути (Happy Trails) from Comrade Marion

Twiga Magic in Nairobi

Twiga is the Swahili word for giraffe and they create magic as they stroll freely around Giraffe Manor, peacefully co-existing with the 10 warthogs and 3 dogs that have the run of the estate. Being there was like stepping into the film "Out of Africa.". Ironically, the woman who is the subject of the film, had a house not far from the Manor. If you remember at the end of the film, Karen Blixen gives all of her furniture to friends before leaving Africa. My room actually had furniture from her home as well as a large wood burning fireplace. Even though Nairobi is near the equator, the city is about 4,000 feet in altitude and this is their winter. The nights did get cool, but morning brought the giraffes to the windows to be hand- fed kibble. It was an incredible experience to feel a giraffe licking the kibble gently out of my hand and to meet them, up close and personal. Staying at the manor is also an opportunity to help preserve the Rothschild giraffe. They were almost extinct when the original residents of the house (Betty and Jock Leslie Melville), heard that the small band of exisiting giraffes was going to be wiped out. They managed to save one baby which they named Daisy, and Giraffe Manor began. They later rescued Marlon their second giraffe and now there are 10 at the Manor (7 adults and 3 babies). The mistress of the manner now is Betty's daughter-in-law Bryony who is a tad intimidating. She is one of those folks who have lived out the fantasy of actually being raised in Africa so in addition to her British accented English, Bryany speaks fluent Swahili. Also, Bryony looks like a model, has the sophistication of a life-long world traveler, and makes graciousness look like it's as natural as breathing.(just like Suzanne and Paul!) Bryany and her incredible staff; (Cosmos, Julius, George, and the other 7-8 folks who work at the manor) make every guest feel like a member of the family. You can't possibly stay there without getting caught up in the enchantment of it all. I embarassed myself by tearing up when I left. It felt like leaving home; a home that exists in dreams only......On to my last stop in Africa: Tanzania.....Happy Trails until then, Bwana Marion

"Jambo" ("welcome" in Swahili) to Africa

A one night stay in Nairobi before flying to the island of Madagascar. The trip to the hotel in Nairobi brought back memories of the time I lived in England; road signs, roundabouts (traffic circles), the British accents, are all reminders that Kenya was once a British protectorate. Given that there are only 2 flights to Madagascar each week, I was at their mercy for scheduling. 2 flights and a 3-4 hour drive in a four wheel drive finally brought me to Berenty Reserve, the home of the lemurs in the southernmost part of the island. It was established to prevent the lemurs from becoming extinct. I was lucky that Dr. Allison Jolly, a world authority on lemurs, was there with her merry band of graduate students.
I was also very lucky to run into a great British couple who (1) knew everything about birds and lemurs (2) knew everything about plants (3) told great jokes to the amazement of our superb guide Mbolo and shy driver Jose', (4), were terrific photographers, and (5) spoke English. The last became very important in a country where the primary language is Malagasy, secondary language is French, and almost no one speaks English. I hung on to this poor British couple like velcroe. I'm sure they were happy to finally rid themselves of the annoying American......Staying at the Berenty Reserve is a little like an Outward Bound experience. No TV, radio, stereo, newspapers, reading materials of any kind, air conditioning, fan, outlets, and no electricity between 10 pm and 7 am. Any civilization beyond the reserve is at least an hour's drive away. My mantra became "good cause, good cause." It was all worth it the first morning when the sun was rising and all the lemurs came out to catch the morning rays after a cool night. They all sat on their haunches with arms outstretched facing the sun like little buddahs. The lemurs left no doubt that this was their place and we were just visitors...They truly are little people in hairsuits......After 4 days of becoming one with the lemurs it was time to return to Nairobe and become one with the giraffes at Giraffe Manor.....Happy Trails, Marion

Salaam! (Hello in Arabic)

After my one day tour with Heesham and Mohamed, the 8 day tour began, highlighted by a slow cruise up the Nile. I say "up" because the Nile is one of 2 rivers in the world that runs south to north. After more touring in Cairo, we all flew to the Aswan Dam and the beginning of our journey on the Queen of Sheeba, a 200+ foot boat with four floors and a swimming pool and observation area on the top deck. Each day of sailing I would fall more and more into the rhythm of the river; the children swimming and laughing on the shores of the small towns, the hot winds each afternoon, the sound of the Muslim "Call to Prayers" 5 times each day. I think all of us were captured by it and found it difficult to leave when we finally docked. All along the shores you could see layers of life; the lush greenery of the foilage and palm trees along the banks, the next layer of small towns made of huts interspersed with the beautiful Minerettes, the next layer of desert sands, and then the final layer of desert mountains. All along the cruise we would visit Pyramids and ruins that date back for thousands of years. Hanan, the tour guide, made it all come alive for us. Hanan teaches at the University of Cairo and has actually participated in many of the archeological digs at the Valley of the Kings. Her passion for the subject combined with her knowledge and sense of humor made it all mesmerizing, despite the 110-115 degree heat. (My gift to you - if (when) you go to Egypt. go in Nov, Dec, or Jan when it is much cooler. Also, sign up for Hanan with Gate One Tours. She and Bill were incredible. They did not pay me for this commercial!!!)...It was very difficult to leave Egypt. It captured my heart. I will be back (during cooler weather) and I look forward to seeing great friends that I met there. One last piece of ancient Egyptian gossip; King Tut's tomb is actually one of the smallest and least opulant of all of the tombs found. What makes it so interesting is it is the only one discovered intact - it was discovered before grave robbers could get to it......Next trip on to Africa. Happy Trails, Marion
P.S. orsem hobby to Magic M

Alive and Kickin

It is 4 countries later and I have finally found an internet in Tanzania (thanks to Daniel, my guide).. For all these weeks I have been in places with no internet, no electricity, no newspapers, and no cell phone connection. It has been an adventure. Hopefully I can gradually catch up.... The "Real" tour of Egypt was highlighted by a slow cruise up the Nile River. The Nile is one of the 2 rivers in the world that travels from south to north. We flew from Cairo to the Aswan Dam and after seeing spectacular pyramids and tombs, boarded a 250 foot, 4 story ship to slowly cruise up the Nile. It is amazing how quickly your body adjusts to the gentle rythms and sounds of the Nile; the sound of children laughing and waving as they swim on the banks, the hot wind that blows in in the afternoons, the sound of the Muslim "call to prayers" that rings out 5 times a day. In addition, all of the side trips to land were beyond expectations. Our guide, Hanan, is actually a professor at the University of Cairo and has participated in many of the archeological digs at the Valley of the Kings and elsewhere. She made everything come alive and all of us hung on every word. One couple was in Egypt for their 5th visit and said that they had never heard the information in her tour. Also, Bill the other guide was knowledgable and truly concerned about all of our wellbeing. I can't recommend Gate 1 enough as the group to use if you travel to Egypt. And they are not paying me for this commercial!!!! The trip to Egypt ended much too soon but I know that I will return. It has my heart. On to Nairobi.........Happy Trails, Marion....P.S. Orsem Hobby, Magic M

Stepping 4,000 Years Back in Time; Egypt

Amazingly, I successfully ran the frequent flyer gauntlet - to get from Machu Picchu, Peru to Cairo Egypt, I travelled to Cuzco, then Lima, Peru, then to Mexico City, Atlanta, Boston, Paris, Prague (seen on T shirt "Czech Me Out"), and finally Cairo. I signed up for a tour here, so I was lucky to be escorted through customs by one of the local tour folks. When he found that I didn't have an Egyptian visa, the tour person discretely pulled out a pack of cigarettes, tore off the Egyptian tax stamp, licked it, and pasted into my passport. It was truly creative and it worked. It was 3 am by the time I was out of the airport and into the van, heading to the hotel. The early hours combined with jetlag may have added to the impression that I had truly taken a step back in time. For the first time in all my travels I felt like I had travelled into a different place and era. Egypt has over 2,500 Mosques and the entire route was lined with minerets, that were all beautifully highlighted with spotlights. All the roadsigns and advertising is in Arabic which adds to the sense of entering a different place. It's not just new words but now it's also a new alphabet. Much of this "difference" was dispelled yesterday on an all day private tour with Mohamed and Heersham of Gate One Travel. It was like getting together with old friends, who just happen to know everything about Egypt, past and present. We visited the oldest pyramids, the earliest Christian (Coptic) church and the oldest Synagogue in Egypt, both dating many years BC. In Egypt, becoming a tour guide takes years of study and a lifelong commitment to learning the history of the country. It was like being on a study tour and there was nothing I could ask that Mohamed didn't know.
One special visit that few tourists are allowed, was a visit to the City of the Dead. If you weren't wealthy enough to have a pyramid built for your grave, the ancient Egyptians would build a small house, with a small entryway which lead to your burial tomb in an enclosed back area. The main highway through downtown Cairo goes through the center of miles and miles of this cemetary. Graves were actually moved to make way for the highway to come through. Gradually the very poor started to move into the small one room entryways and make them their homes. The city tried unsuccessfully for decades to have them removed, but finally gave up, and had water and power supplied for this City of the Dead. Heersham drove us into the City of the Dead at my request and obtained permission for me to actually visit one of the homes. I was able to take pictures and hope to share them with you. Final highlights of my tour; driving through Cairo, and Mohamed telling me to look to my right. There in the middle of downtown Cairo was a strip of desert with the Pyramids and the Sphynx. For some reason I thought that we would have to drive miles into the desert to see them, but there they were, visible in the middle of all the Cairo rush hour traffic. The sight took my breath away. After years of seeing them in movies and books, they were in front of me. It was a moment that will always be frozen in time for me. The day ended with a trip to the Bizarre for Turkish coffee and a smoke of apple flavored tobacco in one of the hookahs (Turkish water pipes) that you find in all of the coffee shops everywhere you look in Cairo. Where the US has bars and clubs, Egypt has coffee shops, where time slows down and you can sit and smoke and watch the world walk by. It's hard to believe that the real tour that I signed on for starts tomorrow. It has already been an enchanting time here. Mohamed, Heersham, and I laughed all day as they helped me discover this beautiful city.*****
A last note, I am working on trying to get pictures published on this blog. The technology is well beyond my ability level, but I have several people trying to help with this. So that's all for now. Tonight I meet my fellow travelers at a dinner and off we go. Happy Trails to you, Marion in Wonderland

Greetings From Machu Picchu, Peru

It's hard to believe that 3 days ago I was sitting in my condo with Diane, discussing this trip over donuts and coffee. But I'm here and slowly learning to type on a Sapanish keyboard. Si?...A few things about the locale. Machu Picchu is more than words or pictures can describe. It's immense with surrounding mountain walls that are close to 90 degree angles. It is impossible to take a picture with any camera that could capture it. Truly, this is where God lives. I love the Peruvian lawn mowers used to keep the grass short at Machu Picchu. The entire site is covered with Llamas that happily munch their days away while hanging off of the steep terrain...... In closing one quick image to leave you with. I was in the middle of Cusco, a fairly large city when I saw an older couple in traditional Peruvian dress run across the 6 lanes of insane traffic, dragging their llama on a leash. I watched with mouth open as all 3 of them dashed into a bar. There has to be a joke in there somewhere (Bill?)....In short, Peru is beyond expectations. Uno Cervasa Por Favor!!!Happy Trails, Marion

Farewell Until.....

Only 4 days before I leave, so here is a quick summary of the remaining countries I will be visiting.****After Africa, I go to Moscow the capital of Russia for 5 days (for some nice shots of Moscow, see the first part of the Tom Hanks movie "Castaway.") Then on to India and a stop in the tiny country of Bhutan (between India, Nepal, China, and Tibet). In India I will be visiting the Taj Mahal as well as areas in the northwest and Bombay (now called Mumbai). From India I travel to Hong Kong, Xi'an China, and Tibet. Xi'an is where the emporer's tomb containing thousands of lifesized warriors on horseback was recently discovered.*** If you have seen Brad Pitt's movie "Seven Years in Tibet" you will know why I want to go to Tibet, (even if Brad isn't there). Finally, around Oct 20, I head back home to Jacksonville Beach.****While travelling I will try to keep this Blog updated as much as I can, but computer terminals may be tough to find. At a minimum, I will continue the Blog when I return - with lots of stories and new pictures. Take care of yourselves while I am gone. Thanks to everyone for reading the Log and for giving me ongoing encouragement and advice. In this life, I have been blessed with incredible friends.***** Happy Trails from RamblinMe

Kitty helping me pack during my last 4 days before I leave 

Next Stop: Africa & Madagascar, Sept 8 -18

This is the Animal Planet portion of the trip!! Did I mention lemurs? After a night in Nairobi, the capital of Kenya, it's off to the much anticipated Madagascar, the island off the southwest coast of Africa. Only 2 flights a week on Air Madagascar (AirMad) to choose from. My goal was to get to the Berenty Reserve on the south end of the island and, after a month of work, I found a great American tour group that put together a trip for me to the Berenty Reserve.***** After 5 days in Mad, it's back to Nairobi Africa and the highlight of the trip - one night at Giraffe Manor. In the gorgeous manor house (built in1932) and 120 acres, the owners have been taking care of orphaned giraffes since 1974. The giraffes are so tame that they will put their heads through the open windows as you are eating your meals. There are only 5 rooms in the manor that are available for booking, and I was incredibly lucky to be able to get my one night there. One of the bedrooms is furnished with all of Karen Blixen's ("Out of Africa") furniture that she gave to the owners before she left Africa. My second day in Nairobi, I hope to visit Nairobi National Park, just south of the city. It's interesting that Nairobi is a city of over 2 million people and yet the city is a short drive from roaming Zebras, elands, impalas, gazelles, warthogs, ostriches, giraffes, leopards, lions, cheetahs, rhinos, hippos, etc.. There is a fence that bounds the park but it's not unusual for animals to make a break for it. *****Leaving Kenya, I fly to Dar Es Salaam ("haven of piece" in Arabic) in Tanzania for one day before leaving for Russia. The exotic island of Zanzibar is a ferry ride away from the city and one last African adventure before heading to Moscow.**** Happy Trails, Marion

Giraffe Manor - Nairobi, Kenya, Africa 

Second Stop Egypt - Aug 29 to Sept 8

For Egypt I found a wonderful tour that seems to include all the famous monuments and cities that I can't wait to see. I arrive in Cairo at 2:30 am on Monday morning and have 3 days to explore the city and surrounding areas. The hotel is within walking distance of the pyramids. On the first night of the tour we are scheduled for a sound and light show that is projected off the pyramids. On Friday we fly to Aswan and tour the Temple of Isis. Then off to a ship that will take us down the Nile to Edfu where a horse drawn carriage takes us to the Temple of Horus and then back to the ship to sail to Luxor(the new name of ancient capital of Thebes). On Sunday we see the Neocropolis of Thebes, the Colossi of Menon, the Valley of Kings, the Valley of Queens, and a sound and light show at the Temple of Karnak. Sadly so many of the burial chambers of the Kings and Queens have been looted and the mummies have been moved and hidden to keep them from being desecrated. On Monday we travel to the Temples of Karnak and Luxor, visit the Avenue of the Sphinxes, and then cruise back to Luxor, where we take a plane back to Cairo and the end of the tour. I then have 3 days on my own and hope to further explore Cairo and the ancient seaside city of Alexandria. At 3:30 am on Thursday morning I say farewell to Egypt and head to my next stop, Nairobi Africa for more adventures.****A last note - while I am flying from Peru to Egypt, the best exhibit ever to come out of Egypt is flying to the US. The King Tut exhibit is spectacular. Please don't miss it if you have the chance!! Happy Trails. Marion

The Temple of Hather in Egypt with statues of Ramses II and his wife Nefertari

First Stop - Peru - August 22-26

In deciding to spend only 5 days in Peru, I had no idea how difficult it would be to travel from Lima to Machu Picchu - my main objective in traveling to Peru. It will take the entire 5 days just to get there and back, spending only one evening at Machu Picchu "the best known and most inspiring archeological site on the continent." The last picture that I included in this journal is of the site. It looks like a photographers dream! The site was created by the Incas about the same time that Columbus was discovering America. It remained a mystery (even to the invading Spaniards) until 1911 when Hiram Bingham, an archeologist, discovered it. Besides the beauty, I think one of the attractions is the mystery. Why was it built? What was it's purpose? What about the 100s of skeletons found below the walls? There is only speculation at this point. It will be worth the trip, which starts in Lima, the capital of Peru. I arrive in Lima on Monday evening at 10:30 pm. After a quick nights sleep, it's off to the airport for a spectacular 6 am flight to Cuzco, the closest town next to Machu Picchu and once the formost city of the Incan empire. Cuzco is considered the "archeological capital of the Americas as well as the continent's oldest continuously inhabited city." This part of the journey invites altitude sickness; going from Lima (about 500 feet above sea level) over Huccaran (22,400 feet) landing in Cuzco (11,000 feet). The natives are prepared for sick tourists with a special tea that supposedly cures, or at least makes you forget the problem. A night in Cuzco and then a train ride (vistadome) on another spectacular journey to Machu Picchu. Hotels are very cheap in Peru, but I did spend a little extra to stay in Hutachay Tower, one of the few hotels actually at Machu Picchu. This gives me the opportunity to explore the site after the 1,000 other tourists leave. The trip back is the reverse of my description above, except that I have a day to explore Lima. Sue and Walt recommend the Gold Museum and the Main Plaza so it is a "must see." Friday night at 10pm I leave for the airport for a Sat 12:15 am flight out. Those of you who have used frequent flyer miles, know the adventure involved and why you need a lot of time to travel. To fly from Lima Peru to my next destination Cairo Egypt it will take 2 days and stops in the following places; Mexico City, Atlanta, Boston, Paris, Prague, arriving in Cairo on Monday morning at 2:10 am. The good news is that I get to spend 12 hours in Paris. Hopefully I can get to the Louvre Museum and check out the Mona Lisa's new home within the museum. Next week's entry: Cairo and the boat trip down the Nile. Stay tuned! Happy Trails - Marion***** A parting interesting fact about Peru: "Coca is cultivated on 46,700 hectacres - enough for 150,000 KG of cocaine (although much of it is actually used for legal chewing and tea making)."

RUOK?

This has been a week of checking on friends. First, with the terrible bombings in London, I was on the phone to be sure that friends there are OK. Thankfully all are fine. Ann was my neighbor when I lived there and we reminisced about the time we lived through a bomb scare. We are both here today only because the detonator on the bomb, placed under the Hammersmith Bridge, failed.**** Secondly, with Hurricane Dennis heading north, friends on the Gulf and relatives in Georgia are being monitored. Even though we in Jacksonville aren't in the "Cone of Concern" the winds have been really picking up. I saw a neighbor holding onto his little dog on their"walk" downstairs. I suggested diving weights for the dog. ****Despite all the major events going on I continue with the minor stuff of getting ready for the trip. As much as I am terrified of shots, I am pleased to announce that I lived through all 8 of them. Ellen at the Jacksonville Travel Clinic was incredible. She specializes in helping people who go on international trips, especially the areas of the world where medical precautions are necessary. By country, she had information on what was needed before during and after the trip. I think I've already hit my 44 lb. luggage limit just with medical supplies for "just in case." There is no room for clothes and personal supplies. I'll have to be creative.**** To everyone, please be safe during these uncertain times. Happy Trails, Marion

First Step of Journey - Machu Picchu in Peru 

Please Let Me In, I Promise to Leave

After completing visa applications for 10 countries, I'm beginning to pick up a theme running through most of them; you are welcome into the country as long as you can prove that you will be leaving. For example: Tanzania requires a copy of your bank statement to be sure that you have enough money to buy a ticket to leave the country (Just in case you lose your ticket??). Almost all of the applications require copies of your tickets for LEAVING the country. My favorite question on any of the forms is from the Kenya application: "Are you returnable to your country of residence/domicile?" My evil twin wanted to reply "No, but I can be exchanged for an item of equal or lesser value." Of course, I would never say that! Believe it or not, the easiest application was for China - only one page with simple logical questions. The toughest was Russia - 6 pages plus itinerary and copies of tickets. Their application was more detailed than any job application I've completed (my ex-husband's birthdate and birth place?) "Sonny, don't worry if Russian officials show up at your door. It's just my visa application." In addition to the application, I had to obtain all sorts of official documents from Russia to confirm that I have a place to stay every night. Only three weeks to complete all applications- but it's done. And now I'm just waiting for the FED EX guy to show up and take it all (with my passport) to Washington D.C. Wish me luck!! I am returnable, aren't I? Happy Trails, Marion

Ringtailed lemurs from Berenty Reserve in Madagascar - soon to be best friends 

We're Cookin Now!

Even though I didn't go to Hawaii, a lot of good things happened. First, Sue and Walter, great friends from my Arco days in Los Angeles (in the 80s) came for a visit. So good to see them. Sue has traveled to 60+ countries and was a great help in firming up reservations for Madagascar. Lemurs, here I come! After 2 weeks of work I finally have reservations for one of THE cottages at the Berenty Reserve in southern Madagascar. It actually took longer for this reservation than for any of the other countries. All of this work for a tiny cottage with no air conditioning, electricity turned off at 11 each night, and lemurs raiding your place for food.....Can't wait! Now it's time to start putting things together to obtain visas. For 8 of the 10 countries I'm visiting, I'm using a special service that obtains visas for a fee at the various Embassies. The process is so bureaucratic and time consuming that it is sensless to try to do it myself. For example, it would cost 3 times as much for me to obtain the visa for China rather than going through the service. Also, it's time for one of my favorite trip preparation chores - shopping for clothes!! For now, I'm spending a lot of time searching the net for Buzz Off - clothes with built in mosquito repellent - highly recommended by a number of the tour books. There is actually quite a selection in feminine styles without the camouflage leafy covering. Signing off for now after a thank you to Sandy and Adrian for torturing me with a call from Hawaii, letting me know what a paradise it is there. Happy Trails, Marion

My Biker Chick Phase (last month) 

Hawaii and Madagascar

Good friends Adrian and Sandy are leaving for Hawaii on Sunday and have invited me to go with. I've never been to Hawaii and it would be a hoot traveling with them but there is a certain amount of guilt in going there in addition to the world trip. What is that about? I still have 24+ hours to decide.
This week has been focused on the planning for the Madagascar portion of the trip. I'd like to think I've started a trend. Carmen Diaz recently went there for MTV and a new cartoon movie called Madagascar was recently released. For such a small island it's getting a lot of well-deserved plublicity.
My main goal in going there is to see the lemurs. This is the only place where they exist in the wild. It's amazing that 80% of the animal and plant species in Madagascar, exist only in Madagascar. It's as if the entire island was dropped here from Mars. After going through several tour books, I decided that Berenty Reserve on the south end of the island is the place to stay. The ringtailed lemurs are so tame that they climb on the tourists and try to sneak into their cottages. Also, the Reserve has the greatest variety of lemurs in one place and, most important, there was no mention of leeches in the text of the Berenty description.
I'm waiting to receive a response to my FAX requesting a cottage and now I'm beginning to worry that they are booked for the year (only 15 cottages). I'll start telephoning them Sunday night. The 12 hour time difference and my terrible French will make it a challenge . Happy Trails, Marion