For Renae

My friend Renae recently sent me an email saying that she had successfully climbed all the highest mountains in New Hampshire (during the worst winter ever). I have a new appreciation for her accomplishment since I couldn't make it to the top of this sand dune in time for sunset. We made it about 5 1/2 stories out of 6 before inventing a new sport - butt sliding down the side of the dune. Going down is much easier than going up. This is Etienne - the most patient guide in history. It has been a week since this adventure and I am still finding red sand in everything I own.

Wild Ostrich in Namibian Desert

The deserts we travelled are all protected by the government and provide a home for 1000s of spring bok (deer), plus Oryx, wild horses, wild ostriches, and hyenas.

Namibian Desert Art

Dunes and Grasslands-Namibia

Namibian Oryx

Namibian Dune

This is the reason to travel to the Namibian desert. The views are spectacular at sunrise and sunset, especially from the top of the red sand dunes. Getting there is another problem. The red sand is like confectioners sugar and once you get to the top ridge, it is hard to keep your footing to keep from sliding back down the mountain. This ridge is over 6 stories high.

Sossus Dune Passage to the Stars

This walkway and all parts of the Lodge are above ground to keep you out of the way of all the desert critters, (like the hyenas that wait below for scraps from dinner). At night walking back to my room I saw a sky almost covered in stars. With the air this clear and so far removed from any lights, you can see stars that look like dust surrounding the stars that you might normally see on a clear night. It made me realize how small we are in comparison.

The Restaurant at the End of the Universe

"The Restaurant at the End of the Universe" is actually the title of one of my favorite books by Douglas Adams, but it couldn't be a more appropriate title for the restaurant at Sossus Dune. It is shaped in a giant oval and it has spectacular views of the desert and mountains. All doors and windows are open to the outside and you feel a part of the landscape. It doesn't hurt that there is a 6 star chef and an unbelievable bar and wine list. In the restaurant, everyone seemed to be talking in whispers. You feel like you are in a desert chapel that pays homage to all the natural beauty.

My Home at Sossus Dune Lodge

Far far far into the Namibian desert, when you feel like you will drive off the end of the earth, you will find the amazing Sossus Dune Lodge. It has 23 houses like these, connected by a wooden walkway to the main lodge and swimming pool. The entire building on the right was my home while there. It is about 600 sq feet and the entire right side is glass and balcony overlooking a desert that goes on forever. The walls are canvas and the interior is "Architectual Digest" material. It's a five star lodge plopped down in a lunar landscape.

My" Artsy" Namibian Photo

On the drive between Windhoek and the coast, the scenery changes at every turn, but one constant is the yellow grass that seems to glow, almost a neon yellow.

Last Chance to Shop

At the dock this woman competed with the nearby stores to sell her wares. It was a last chance to shop before our boat took off for a half day cruise and champaigne luncheon in Walvis Bay, Namibia.

Seal Island in Walvis Bay

This is a tiny portion of one grouping of the seals in Walvis Bay and there are 16 of these settlements there. They are a constant frustration to the fisherman who compete with the seals for the same fish.

Dolphin Hello

The local dolphins aren't as outgoing as the ones in Florida (no jumps out of the water), but we did see over 20 swimming past the boat.

Coming in for a Landing

Pink Pelicans

In addition to the flamingos, the pelicans also turn pink when they have a steady diet of shrimp.

So Long and Thanks for the Fish

When he had enough petting and fish, Ottie climbed back on the platform and jumped back into the ocean. Pieter, the Captain said that there are 3 seals that will jump aboard the tour boats and that they have very different personalities.

Such a Face!

Ottie the Ham

Ottie kept getting up on this platform and posing before going back into the boat for more fish. He was a natural!

Surprise Visitor!

During a cruise to see the seal colonies this guy jumped aboard our boat. There are about 1.8 million seals in Namibia and the number continues to increase because they have very few natural preditors. The tour boats are now associated with fish treats and the seals know that "first come first served." This seal is named Ottie and he "can be a very naughty boy." He knows where the treats are kept and made off with the entire bucket of fish.

Flamingos of Walvis Bay, Namibia

1000s of flamingos live in Walvis (whale) bay year round because the weather doesn't vary much. They change colors based on what they eat. Lots of shrimp makes them turn a vivid shade of pink.

Namibia Rainbow

The Alte Feste-Winhoek's Oldest Building

The Alte Feste is actually a German fort built in 1890-1892 and was the headquarters of German occupied Africa. Today it is a museum with an interesting division of white history and black history in Namibia. The black history is all about the wars and struggle for independence. The white history has antique furniture and musical instruments used by the early German settlers.

Herero Dress

This woman is wearing the traditional dress of the Herero tribe. I had just spent several hours in Windhoek's excellent anthropology museum learning more about the different tribes when I walked past this woman in downtown Windhoek. She let me take her picture for 10 Rand (about one dollar).
This is my 7th African country and I have a feeling that Namibia has more of the "traditional" Africa that we Americans have come to expect - based on what we have read in "National Geographic" and what we have seen and heard in movies. For example,
I heard my first click today. In movies somewhere in my past I remember hearing Africans speaking with a clicking noise. Today at the museum, 2 women were chatting and the conversation was filled with clicks. My guide Etienne explained that the Dama language actually has 6 different clicking noises that are used as part of speech. It's amazing hearing all 6 of them - especially when I can hardly make one basic click. Six variations are impossible for me.
Secondly, the anthropology museum showed that there are several tribes who have decided not to dress as missionaries have taught - but to maintain their original tribal outfits. For women it means topless (except for beautiful jewelry) and a short leather mini skirt. The Himba, in northern Namibia continue to dress like this and also cover their bodies in a red clay.
I've been told that most tribes people will dress differently when they come to town, but at home, they wear the traditional dress.

The City of Windhoek

It's the capital of Namibia and has 240,000 people. Namibia has 1.8 million people.

Windhoek -100 years ago

This is the same church from the previous photo. The hotel where I am staying, the Thuringerhof, is covered in huge black and white photos of Windhoek's early days - and this is a photo of one of their wall hangings.