Friday, February 27, 2009

Abiquiu; Georgia O'Keeffe's Home

After a lot of asking around, I finally found out that Georgia O'Keefe's home is the first home on the left as you drive into the village. Here you can see it at the top of the hill from the highway leading to the village. The view must be spectacular, but there is a 4 month waiting list to actually tour the house
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Sentinels on Rt 155

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House on the Chama

From Rt 155 (which is a dirt road), you need to take a left turn onto an even smaller dirt road to get to the White Place and also the Muslim Mosque. This beautiful home on the Chalma River is at the turn-off point. The actors Marsha Mason and also Shirley McLaine are supposed to have ranches on Rt 155. Could this be one of them???
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View From The Mosque

The Mosque sits at the top of the mountain of its 1,000 acre property, overlooking the mountains that have remnants of snow.
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The Dar al-Islam Mosque

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Dar al-Islam Mosque

Even though northern New Mexico is predominantly Catholic, I'm learning that people of diverse religions and spiritual paths are accepted here. Even so, it's wild to think of finding a Muslim mosque in the middle of Georgia O'Keeffe country.
The name Dar al-Islam means "place of surrender" which aptly desribes the beautiful 1000 acre site of the mosque. The place was bought in 1979 by Nurideen Durkee (of the famous spice family) for
$1, 372,000. It was established as a foundation to further the understanding of Islamic life and education.
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Entry to Plaza Blanca; the White Space

At a fork in the road the road to the right goes to Plaza Blanca, Georgia O'Keeffe's White Place. The road to the left goes to the Muslim Mosque, Dar al-Islam.
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Georgia O'Keefe's "The White Space"

Georgia O'Keeffe's painting titled "The White Space in Shadow" 1942.
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The White Place

Hiking through Georgia O'Keefe's White Place is magical. You can see why it was so special to her.
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Abiquiu Lake

Abiquiu Lake is man made. It extend for miles and is a rarety in this area; a place to go boating and fishing in an otherwise very dry land.
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Ghost Ranch and Its Layers of History

Today Ghost Ranch looks like an enormous conference center located in a beautiful valley, but it started out as a ranch won in a poker game. One of its most famous regular visitors was the famous artist Georgia O'keeffe, who rented the same cabin each year. She roamed the surrounding countryside, and many of her paintings were of this area.
Another interesting note is that in 1947 the bones of one of the earliest dinosaurs ever found in North America, were discovered on this ranch. "Hundreds of complete Coelophysis skeletons were found here in a once-marshy grave." (From the book "From Santa Fe to O'Keefe Country.")
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Ghost Ranch

Near the entrance of Ghost Ranch is an old abandoned log cabin which was used in the movie "City Slickers." In the background you can see the Abiquiu Lake and Pedernal Peak, (the mountain that looks like the top has been sheared off). The lake extends for miles and was made by daming up the river. Padernal peak can be found in many of Georgia O'Keefe's paintings.
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Georgia O'Keefe's "Padernal and Red Hills" 1936

In the background you can see the flattened top of the Padernal mountain which Georgia O'Keefe painted in blue.
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The Chama River Route

Not far from Ghost Ranch is the microscopic sign to Rt 151. There is nothing else to tell you that this is the route to the enigmatic Monastary of Christ in the Desert. You will not believe what they do in order to be self sustaining!
The route follows along the Chama River as it winds around the mountains. The river was one of Georgia Okeefe's favorite subjects for her paintings.
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My New Favorite Route - #151 in NM

All of the area that you pass through on Rt 151 is government protected wilderness and it is spectacular. With all my gaping, I'm thankful that I didn't meet anyone coming from the opposite direction on the one lane road.
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First Glimpse of the Monastary

After miles of bumpy road, driving for over an hour, it was a relief to drive around a curve and finally see the monastary.
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A Modern Twist on a Monastary

When you think of monastaries, probably the first thing that comes to mind is monks toiling away by candlelight on ancient manuscripts, beautifully illuminating pages of scriptures. Christ in the Desert is very much a modern version of this idea.
First, they are concerned with ecology and the preservation of natural resources. They did operate with no power until recently when donated photoelectric cells were installed and they are now running on solar power. In everything they do and through the architecture itself and the use of renewable energy, they are commited to protecting the environment.
Secondly, instead of illuminating ancient manuscripts, they are designing modern websites. This is how they are self sustaining. They even designed the website for the Vatican. Check out their website at www.christdesert.org .
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Monastary of Christ of the Desert

It is exquisite and looks like a natural extension of its surroundings.
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View from the Chapel

From the Chapel there is vivid view of the striped mountains and the Chama River. The only sound is from Canadian geese and the cows answering them. The monks have created rock covered trails and prayer staions throughout the grounds surrounding the chapel. It is a perfect place for meditation and reflection.
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Sunset on the Chapel

As the sun sets on the chapel of the Monastary of Christ in the Desert, you can see through the windows and the magnificant view they afford.
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A Message of Peace

As you leave the Monastary. a message of peace is spelled out in stone.
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The Road Home to Santa Fe

Leaving the Monastary of Christ in the Desert, you begin the one hour+ trip on the washboard one lane clay road that winds around the mountains showing off their beautiful colors as the sun is setting. It is slow going, not just because of the condition of the road, but also the cattle freely crossing the road where ever they wish. For the entire trip back to Route 84 there is no sign of civilization, as if the peacefulness of the monastary has extended this far.
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Thursday, February 19, 2009

Travel Dreams: The World

A big part of the joy of traveling is the dreaming part; where do I go next?
I'm loving living in Santa Fe and will continue writing about it for as long as I live here, but I am also beginning to plan my second trip around the world. With the economy the way that it is, I'm afraid that if I don't cash in my frequent flyer miles now, I may not have the opportunity later. Already the airlines have upped the number of FF miles needed for an around the world trip.
Earlier in this blog I wrote about my last round the world trip travelling east and including Peru, Egypt, Russia, Madagascar, Kenya, Tanzania, India, Bhutan, Tibet, China, and Hong Kong.
This time I hope do do things differently and I would appreciate your advice about any aspect of the trip. My blog allows you to add your comments at the end of each section, so please do.
As in the past I will travel to countries I have never visited, but this time I will travel west. Here is a tentative plan for the trip.
1.Indonesia, focusing on Borneo
2. Viet Nam, Cambodia, Laos, Thailand
3. Bangladesh, Eastern India, and Nepal
4. Eastern Europe, Greece, and Egypt
5. Southern Africa
6. Central America
Also different, I'm thinking about traveling for a year (beginning Jan 2010) and taking my cat (Big Kitty) along.
If this becomes a reality and as things develop, I will include them in my blog. Hopefully other travelers can learn from the many mistakes that I seem to make while traveling. It's all part of the adventure.
Happy Trails from Ramblin Me
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Santa Fe Where "Different" = "Normal"

After 4 months of wandering around Santa Fe, I'm starting to realize why it is aptly called "The City Different" and why it feels like coming home to an oddball/eccentric like myself. Just a few examples of how anything goes:
1. The calendar of upcoming events for a week in the local paper included Tibetan throat singing, Irish folk dancing, a Wiccan [good witch] celebration, Hannukkah on Ice, and an introduction to Kabala.
2. Buying cat food at Petsmart, I saw a woman dancing with all her heart to the 70s rock playing over the PA system.
3. In another store a 50+ year old woman with blue hair and a pink feathery jacket over layers of clothing told me that she "just felt like going back to her punk roots today."
4. The rodeo grounds and stadium are next door to the community center which contains an ice skating rink, 4 indoor swimming pools, gyms, and an expresso bar.
5. The average person here is by no means average. Most are Native American, Spanish, or Mexican, with white anglos in the minority. There are lots of tall lean older folks with long hair and dressed with flair and character. They are great looking, distinctive, articulate, passionate about their beliefs, but with a wonderful dry sense of humor. It's where all the good looking hippies have come to retire.
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Los Alamos Final Notes

Before leaving the subject of Los Alamos, the town where the atomic bomb was invented, I highly recommend that you read Joseph Kanon's murder mystery titled, "Los Alamos." The story is fiction but the setting is Los Alamos and the Manhattan Project while the bomb was being developed and tested. It is a terrific read as well as a love story to the area around Santa Fe and Los Alamos. It makes you want to visit the area.
On a personal note; my visit to Los Alamos was an unexpected link to a part of my early life. When I was 5 years old, my family was sent to live in Japan as part of the US military presence there following World War II. It was only a few years after the US had dropped the two atomic bombs on Japan that ended the war. My family couldn't get military housing, so we found ourselves living in a Japanese mountain village where very few people had ever seen an American. There should have been so much hatred and resentment, but the experience was one of the best of my life. Visiting Los Alamos was like coming back to the origins of that experience.
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