Thursday, March 27, 2008
The Drive down the Island - Isle de Chiloe, Chile
The theme of the drive south could easily have been "find the church." The island is covered with hundreds of completely wooden churches, built when the missionaries made the rounds of the islands in a boat, two priests at a time, travelling to all the churches on a rotating basis. Some are almost cathedral size and each one has it's own unique personality. Even when taking some of the dirt paths off road, there seems to be a church around every corner.
It was a fun one day trip, with lunch at the southern tip of the island in Quelion. Driving into the city I saw an interesting bright yellow building perched at the highest point in the city. It turned out to be a new hotel called Hotel Pantagonia Insular with great food, terrific wine list, a charming manager (whose English is better than mine), beautiful decor, and a spectacular view of the bay. It's so new that you probably won't find it in guidebooks yet, but here is their email address reserva@hotelpantagoniainsular.cl if you find yourself in the neighborhood.
It was a fun one day trip, with lunch at the southern tip of the island in Quelion. Driving into the city I saw an interesting bright yellow building perched at the highest point in the city. It turned out to be a new hotel called Hotel Pantagonia Insular with great food, terrific wine list, a charming manager (whose English is better than mine), beautiful decor, and a spectacular view of the bay. It's so new that you probably won't find it in guidebooks yet, but here is their email address reserva@hotelpantagoniainsular.cl if you find yourself in the neighborhood.
Islets of Puinhuil Tour and "Pen-GWEE-no"
A 45 minute trip due west of Ancuda takes you to the Pacific Ocean and the 3 islets of Puinhuil, the Penguin capital of the area. The islands are so close to shore that you can almost swim to them. An entire community of local guides lives on the beach to boat tourists around the islands which are covered in penguins. It is the only place in the world where Magellan and Humboldt penguins live together.
The penguins take it all in stride, as if the boatload of people is being brought to them, for their amusement. They stop and check out each boat to evaluate the latest tour group. Whales, seals, black necked swans, and otters are also part of the tour, depending on the time you are there.
As enchanting as the tour is, the scenery in that area is the most beautiful of any in the world. Looking across the green hills to the ocean below was a visceral experience for me. I kept thinking "I must live here!" With the exchange rate of 1 US dollar equal to 500 Chilean Pesos, I might be able to afford it. Since no one speaks English my 20 words of Spanish would have to expand to a full vocabulary out of necessity.
The cold reality though, is just that - the cold. My visit was in the middle of their summer and it was chilly. The mountain range that runs down the center of the main island protects all the towns on the east side of the island, but this area is on an unprotected bluff overlooking the Pacific. I can only imagine how brutal the winters are there.
That's my practical voice, but my heart tells me that I can't forget that area. Perhaps a winter visit will tell me that it's not as cold as I predict. I can always dream...
The penguins take it all in stride, as if the boatload of people is being brought to them, for their amusement. They stop and check out each boat to evaluate the latest tour group. Whales, seals, black necked swans, and otters are also part of the tour, depending on the time you are there.
As enchanting as the tour is, the scenery in that area is the most beautiful of any in the world. Looking across the green hills to the ocean below was a visceral experience for me. I kept thinking "I must live here!" With the exchange rate of 1 US dollar equal to 500 Chilean Pesos, I might be able to afford it. Since no one speaks English my 20 words of Spanish would have to expand to a full vocabulary out of necessity.
The cold reality though, is just that - the cold. My visit was in the middle of their summer and it was chilly. The mountain range that runs down the center of the main island protects all the towns on the east side of the island, but this area is on an unprotected bluff overlooking the Pacific. I can only imagine how brutal the winters are there.
That's my practical voice, but my heart tells me that I can't forget that area. Perhaps a winter visit will tell me that it's not as cold as I predict. I can always dream...
Shopping in Ancud, Isle de Chiloe in Chile
Shopping was an adventure. The brown leather looking tubes (upper right) are actually sea weed that is cooked and eaten. All of the cheese shops were together and they all looked like the one in lower left pic. It's all the same type of cheese! At this shopping area I met the only local person who spoke English. She was a Jahova's Witness who ran a tea shop and wanted to talk about the world to come.
I escaped to eat as much seafood as I could at one sitting. The seafood was to die for and incredibly cheap.
I escaped to eat as much seafood as I could at one sitting. The seafood was to die for and incredibly cheap.
The Romance of the Islands in Chile
There is such a strong pull to me from islands and deciding which island to visit in Chile was difficult. After all, you have Easter Island with its mysterious statues (how DID they get there?), you have the island where Robinson Crusoe was stranded, and among others you can visit the islands that are your stopping off point to Anarctica.
I chose the Islands of Chiloe halfway down the coast between Santiago and Anarctica, with its hundreds of smaller islands clustered around the central one, its isolation from the mainland, and its timelessness. There are no bridges, trains, or commercial airlines to get there. There is one ferry port just south of Peurto Montt that takes you to the main island.
At the Puerto Montt airport I rented a tiny Chevy and headed south on Route 5. Throughout the flight there I practiced with my home made flash cards of traffic signs -insurance to stay out of trouble. Just remember "pellegro" means danger.Most road signs were pictures and easy to interpret and the trip was a pleasure, especially with the luxury of stopping where ever I wanted to take pictures.Once off the ferry, you do step back in time. Route 5 is the one main highway that runs from the northern part of the island to the southern part, about 105 miles away. Roads branching off of 5 have a 50-50 chance of being dirt and gravel. Because of the lack of any other roads (or sidewalks) it is common to drive up on large families walking arm in arm in your lane, (creating lots of pellegro if you aren't attentive.
It is hard to book hotels on the island in advance because they are generally small family businesses with no internet connections, but I was lucky to find and book the Hotel Ancud, a 20 minutes from the ferry. It is a huge log structure on a peninsula with a 270 degree view of the water. The last picture in the blog was taken there, but without a special lens there is no way to capture the full view of the water with the snow capped mountains in the distance. Like many remote islands, Isle de Chiloe has protected its own special language and dialects, superstitions intwined with the Christianity brought by missionaries, and its own culture. It is a world unto itself. This also means that no one speaks English, there are very few service stations on the entire island, few people take credit cards, and I REALLY stood out as being "not from around here." It was a hoot.
I chose the Islands of Chiloe halfway down the coast between Santiago and Anarctica, with its hundreds of smaller islands clustered around the central one, its isolation from the mainland, and its timelessness. There are no bridges, trains, or commercial airlines to get there. There is one ferry port just south of Peurto Montt that takes you to the main island.
At the Puerto Montt airport I rented a tiny Chevy and headed south on Route 5. Throughout the flight there I practiced with my home made flash cards of traffic signs -insurance to stay out of trouble. Just remember "pellegro" means danger.Most road signs were pictures and easy to interpret and the trip was a pleasure, especially with the luxury of stopping where ever I wanted to take pictures.Once off the ferry, you do step back in time. Route 5 is the one main highway that runs from the northern part of the island to the southern part, about 105 miles away. Roads branching off of 5 have a 50-50 chance of being dirt and gravel. Because of the lack of any other roads (or sidewalks) it is common to drive up on large families walking arm in arm in your lane, (creating lots of pellegro if you aren't attentive.
It is hard to book hotels on the island in advance because they are generally small family businesses with no internet connections, but I was lucky to find and book the Hotel Ancud, a 20 minutes from the ferry. It is a huge log structure on a peninsula with a 270 degree view of the water. The last picture in the blog was taken there, but without a special lens there is no way to capture the full view of the water with the snow capped mountains in the distance. Like many remote islands, Isle de Chiloe has protected its own special language and dialects, superstitions intwined with the Christianity brought by missionaries, and its own culture. It is a world unto itself. This also means that no one speaks English, there are very few service stations on the entire island, few people take credit cards, and I REALLY stood out as being "not from around here." It was a hoot.
Tuesday, March 11, 2008
Foresta Hotel - Santiago Chile
The Foresta has been mentioned several times in previous blogs because of its unbelievable price ($36 including continental breakfast), perfect location, and convenience. The staff including the manager (bottom right) and Carmen (top left) were the best Even though no one spoke English and my Spanish was terrible, we seemed to do just fine. It was almost anachronistic to be using their free internet in the shadow of the suit of armor. A few downsides - no air conditioning and a high noise level. Ear plugs or Ambien is a requirement. Even mid-summer, the lack of air conditioning wasn't a problem as long as your room had a fan. The restaurant and bar at the top of the building has a good view of the park and city, but remember that eating hours are very different in South America. No one begins to think about dinner until 8pm or later. Also the chef is tempramental, but aren't they all!One day I had to walk several blocks from the Foresta to meet a tour group at the Crown Plaza Hotel. The hotel was much nicer and charged $280 per night. $36 versus $280? No contest for me.
Happy Trails and onward to the south to visit Isla de Chiloe, the remote fishing islands of Chile.
Santiago, Chile-the Castle Across the Street - Santa Lucia Park
One of the reasons for staying at the Foresta Hotel is that you can walk across the street and enter the world of Santa Lucia Park. I could imagine Escher designing some of the winding trails that climb to all sorts of turrets and chapels and castle embankments and various levels of parks. Some of the climbing is terrifying. The steps are odd shaped worn slabs of stone and if you are lucky there is an iron railing. As you climb higher, you need to squeeze between rocks and cross around narrow passgeways that seem to dangle over the city. The reward is the turret at the top with a 360 degree view of Santiago. Also you can see the San Cristobal Mountain, the highest point in the city, with its own fenuncular.
Each turn in the climb brings little pockets of shaded solitude with lush plants, wild park cats and parakeets, families picnicing, and people walking their dogs- a perfect time-out from Santiago city life.
Climbing down on the other side of the park brought other parks and trails that ultimately ended back at the Foresta Hotel, my home in Santiago. Tour the park with me at
http://picasaweb.google.com/ramblinme
Each turn in the climb brings little pockets of shaded solitude with lush plants, wild park cats and parakeets, families picnicing, and people walking their dogs- a perfect time-out from Santiago city life.
Climbing down on the other side of the park brought other parks and trails that ultimately ended back at the Foresta Hotel, my home in Santiago. Tour the park with me at
http://picasaweb.google.com/ramblinme
Valparaiso, Chile - Faded Glory
Ok, I'll admit it. I fell in love with this city. In some ways it is like San Francisco, but more quirky, eclectic, steeper, with more electric Kool Aid colors. The house in this picture has been in several movies because it is 3 stories on one side and 6 on the other - dramatically showing how steep the hills are. You need to be in shape to tackle them.
At one time Valparaiso was a rich elegant city; the stopping off point for all ships on their long journey south. After the canal was built the city declined. It is in a semi- renewal mode now, with sections completely remodelled and showing off their bright new colors. Other sections have the old beauties, the victorian mansions sitting in ruins, while other sections have people living in huts made of corrugated tin. Even these huts in some places are painted the bright colors.
With the incredibly steep hills the city at one time had over 40 fenunculars, the elevator type cars that run on a track at an angle. As one car goes down the other comes up. Our tour group rode in one of the few left.
A large cobble stoned central square has statues, stores, and the headquarters for the Chilean Navy. The Navy building is an exquisite rennovation of one of the old mansions in grays and whites with maroon trim
.
As the tour bus took us through one of the darker crowded streets of ruined buildings we were told that this section had been declared a World Heritage Site 10 years earlier. Unfortunately no investment has been made to restore that section and it remains a reminder of what might have been.
I will return to Valparaiso and spend more time getting to know this intriguing city. Every corner seemed to have more surprises and a half day is just a tease. Some of the photos I took of the city are titled Valparaiso, Chile on my photo website. Click on the address below, click on the Valparaiso photo for the album, and then click on "Slideshow."
http://picasaweb.google.com/ramblinme
At one time Valparaiso was a rich elegant city; the stopping off point for all ships on their long journey south. After the canal was built the city declined. It is in a semi- renewal mode now, with sections completely remodelled and showing off their bright new colors. Other sections have the old beauties, the victorian mansions sitting in ruins, while other sections have people living in huts made of corrugated tin. Even these huts in some places are painted the bright colors.
With the incredibly steep hills the city at one time had over 40 fenunculars, the elevator type cars that run on a track at an angle. As one car goes down the other comes up. Our tour group rode in one of the few left.
A large cobble stoned central square has statues, stores, and the headquarters for the Chilean Navy. The Navy building is an exquisite rennovation of one of the old mansions in grays and whites with maroon trim
.As the tour bus took us through one of the darker crowded streets of ruined buildings we were told that this section had been declared a World Heritage Site 10 years earlier. Unfortunately no investment has been made to restore that section and it remains a reminder of what might have been.
I will return to Valparaiso and spend more time getting to know this intriguing city. Every corner seemed to have more surprises and a half day is just a tease. Some of the photos I took of the city are titled Valparaiso, Chile on my photo website. Click on the address below, click on the Valparaiso photo for the album, and then click on "Slideshow."
http://picasaweb.google.com/ramblinme
Vina del Mar, Chile - the "Rich' side
Vina del Mar did have the California look of a wealthy beach city, with a few exceptions - very few people actually on the beach or in the water and no surfers or cyclists. After stepping in the water I know why so few swimmers. The ocean there is cooled by currents from the Antarctic and the water was in the high 40s, low 50s. Even though this is Chile , a large number of people come from Argentina - a 6 hour drive compared to a 12 hour drive to an Argentinian beach.The tour group had time for a lunch and walk on the beach before heading off to the poor side of town - Valparaiso
The Easter Island Connection
A tour to see Valparaiso (a city near Santiago) started with a visit to a Moai, one of the mysterious stone statues from Easter Island (which is part of Chile). Only 4 Moai statues have been taken from the island and this is the one on mainland Chile.
The guide said that the US has one in San Francisco. It was tempting to go to Easter Island while visiting Chile but the $600 6 hour flight was a deterent.
The tour's focus was to see the two seaside cities that sit side by side; Valparaiso and Vina del Mar. The guide described Valparaiso as the oldest city in Chile (1536) and the poorest and Vina del Mar as the newest and richest. An interesting way to begin the tour to the two cities...
The guide said that the US has one in San Francisco. It was tempting to go to Easter Island while visiting Chile but the $600 6 hour flight was a deterent.The tour's focus was to see the two seaside cities that sit side by side; Valparaiso and Vina del Mar. The guide described Valparaiso as the oldest city in Chile (1536) and the poorest and Vina del Mar as the newest and richest. An interesting way to begin the tour to the two cities...
Snow in Santiago, Chile
Santiago is known for great skiing with Portilla mountain a short one hour trip from the city. My trip however, was in the middle of their summer. I did not expect snow, but if there was this much snow in the summer, winter skiing has to be outrageous. Perhaps the next trip.....
Chile is known for its excellent wines, fruits and vegetables
that are regularly shipped to the US, but the country itself remains somewhat of a mystery to most Americans. Chile wasn't open for tourism until 1992 and it has a lot of catching up to do if it wants to compete with other South American countries like Brazil and Argentina for American tourists. During my entire stay in Chile (8 days) I met only 2 American couples and very few locals who spoke any English. It felt like a great adventure into uncharted territory. Thank goodness the primary language of Chile is Castellano (Spanish) rather than the Portugese spoken in Brazil. I remembered some of the Spanish I learned living in Los Angeles, especially the important words concerning food, drink, and bathrooms. (What does it say about me that I can order a beer in 10 languages??) Luckily, I had my pocket size Latin American Spanish English dictionary from Lonely Planet, which I highly recommend. It has Castellano and Portugese as well as two remote mountain languages you may need in South America.
Couldn't wait to experience this wonderful new country......
Chile is known for its excellent wines, fruits and vegetables
that are regularly shipped to the US, but the country itself remains somewhat of a mystery to most Americans. Chile wasn't open for tourism until 1992 and it has a lot of catching up to do if it wants to compete with other South American countries like Brazil and Argentina for American tourists. During my entire stay in Chile (8 days) I met only 2 American couples and very few locals who spoke any English. It felt like a great adventure into uncharted territory. Thank goodness the primary language of Chile is Castellano (Spanish) rather than the Portugese spoken in Brazil. I remembered some of the Spanish I learned living in Los Angeles, especially the important words concerning food, drink, and bathrooms. (What does it say about me that I can order a beer in 10 languages??) Luckily, I had my pocket size Latin American Spanish English dictionary from Lonely Planet, which I highly recommend. It has Castellano and Portugese as well as two remote mountain languages you may need in South America.Couldn't wait to experience this wonderful new country......
Monday, March 10, 2008
Ibirapuera Park, Sao Paulo Brazil
Combine hundreds of skate boarders, cyclists, Moms pushing prams, families picnicing, couples on blankets, guys playing soccer, vendors everywhere, and put them in a huge perfectly maintained park with fountains, palm trees, exotic flowers and plants, sculpture pieces, and numerous Museums, and you will get Ibirapuera Park. In one day I could only scratch the surface of the museums and surrounding area. It was obvious that it served as a sanctuary for many of Sao Paulo's residents and everyone was out on a beautiful day, enjoying everything it had to offer.It was a fitting end to my brief time in Sao Paulo and also an end to my time in Brazil. The next stop is Santiago Chile.
Regrets for Sao Paulo? As I wrote in an earlier blog, I wish that I had known that Carnivale is celebrated early there. I would have purchased tickets before leaving the US. I have since checked my guide books and none of them mention the Carnivale date. I was there the first weekend in Feb, so if you plan to visit then, get tickets ahead of time. When I arrived they were sold out and scalpers prices were exhorbitant.
In all, my time in Brazil was an enchantment in a land of beautiful people. Think Girl from Ipanema and Rio de Janeiro and bikini bathing suits called "dental floss." You get the picture...
Sao Paulo Brazil and MASP Art Museum
Lucked out again with the selection of a terrific hotel; the Estanplaza Paulista Hotel in Sao Paulo. It had everything; good price, lovely room, wonderful food, a morning buffet that stretched the length of the restaurant, and a great location. The pic (upper left) shows the view from my room, just a sample of the skyscrapers that cover the city. Within walking distance is the lovely MASP, the Museum de Arte de Sao Paulo. The entire museum is small (perhaps a fouth of a block in area) and it rests one story above the street level. You enter by riding a glass elevator that displays all its pulleys and gears 
during the ride. As with every museum, photos aren't allowed, but I can say that it is a jewel of a museum with significant works by Picasso, Delacroix, Joshua Reynolds, Modigliani, Manet, Renoir, Pousson, Rodin, and even a Bosch.
Rembrandt's etching of St Jerome held a reverential place in the exhibits, but I have to say my favorite painter was actually an artist from Sao Paulo, Candido Portinari (1903-1962). His paintings on display were massive, covering entire walls. Most depicted people going through extreme emotions such as Lazarus rising from the grave or a poor family that is burying a loved one. As large as the paintings are, they all seem to be too small to contain the passion and emotions of the people depicted. They are huge, ponderous figures that are almost bent from trying to stay within the confines of the canvas. He used mostly beiges and grays (like the colors in a sepia toned photo), but in very small and dramatic slashes, he used brilliant red to make a point; on a finger nail, or in the tears of the people who have lost a loved one. You can't view his pieces without carrying the impact away with you. Ironically, he died from the lead in the paint he used.
The MASP is a must see, as is the Parque do Ibirapuera, the next stop on my one person tour.
during the ride. As with every museum, photos aren't allowed, but I can say that it is a jewel of a museum with significant works by Picasso, Delacroix, Joshua Reynolds, Modigliani, Manet, Renoir, Pousson, Rodin, and even a Bosch.Rembrandt's etching of St Jerome held a reverential place in the exhibits, but I have to say my favorite painter was actually an artist from Sao Paulo, Candido Portinari (1903-1962). His paintings on display were massive, covering entire walls. Most depicted people going through extreme emotions such as Lazarus rising from the grave or a poor family that is burying a loved one. As large as the paintings are, they all seem to be too small to contain the passion and emotions of the people depicted. They are huge, ponderous figures that are almost bent from trying to stay within the confines of the canvas. He used mostly beiges and grays (like the colors in a sepia toned photo), but in very small and dramatic slashes, he used brilliant red to make a point; on a finger nail, or in the tears of the people who have lost a loved one. You can't view his pieces without carrying the impact away with you. Ironically, he died from the lead in the paint he used.
The MASP is a must see, as is the Parque do Ibirapuera, the next stop on my one person tour.
Final Thoughts on Iguassu Falls Visit
The Falls were the best part of the South America trip, but just a few tips on the town itself, (Iguassu Falls in Brazil). There is nothing there to see beyond the falls described in my previous blogs. The few restaurants I could find were all-you-can-eat buffets - huge halls with formica tables and mountains of food for 3-6 American dollars. A fantastic deal by any standards, but sometimes you want a really nice sit down meal. One day we passed a restaurant with a huge sign that advertising a "German Beer Garden." Fantastic - German food, I thought. It turned out to be a pizza place. Good pizza, but still a pizza place.
Also getting cash advances on credit cards turned into a bear. I was sent to six consecutive banks (a 10 mile hike up steep hills) before I finally found a Bank of Brazil that would give me an advance. The beaurocracy and number of people involved in giving me $100 cash advance was staggering. The show was great, however, because standard office clothing was very tight midriff bearing low cut clothes for the women and very tight slacks and shirts for the guys; a kind of "Miami Vice" of banking. Would love for it to catch on here in the US.
As for the eternal quest for money, I later found that my Wachovia check card was perfect for cash advaces on any ATM anywhere during the entire trip.
In short, see the Falls and the parks, but don't plan on spending any time in the town itself.
Onward to Sao Paulo Brazil. Happy Trails until then.
Also getting cash advances on credit cards turned into a bear. I was sent to six consecutive banks (a 10 mile hike up steep hills) before I finally found a Bank of Brazil that would give me an advance. The beaurocracy and number of people involved in giving me $100 cash advance was staggering. The show was great, however, because standard office clothing was very tight midriff bearing low cut clothes for the women and very tight slacks and shirts for the guys; a kind of "Miami Vice" of banking. Would love for it to catch on here in the US.
As for the eternal quest for money, I later found that my Wachovia check card was perfect for cash advaces on any ATM anywhere during the entire trip.
In short, see the Falls and the parks, but don't plan on spending any time in the town itself.
Onward to Sao Paulo Brazil. Happy Trails until then.
Sunday, March 09, 2008
Endless Walkways-Argentine Side of Iguassu Falls
It is worth it to go through all the hasstle of getting through the border check to see the Argentine side of the Falls. Actually over 70% of the 275 falls are in Argentina
. Altogther the falls displace 1350 cubic meters of water a second, except in September. This is the rainy season and that number is multiplied by 10 causing all of the extensive network of walkways to be shut down. In 1992 the rainy season was so bad that the walkways were washed away and what you see in my pics is the new and improved network.
With Helena guiding me, I spent the morning working through the walkways and taking hundreds of pictures. Looking down at the people riding rafts into the falls convinced me that I had to try it and it was the ride of a lifetime. If you decide to try it - here is my advice, (as usual, learned the hard way).
Wear a bathing suit under your clothes.
Wear tennis shoes.
Be in excellent condition for the walk back up the mountain.
Bring ear plugs. You really do go into the falls and the water is coming at you from all directions.
Don't forget to breathe. I had to keep reminding myself as the cold water was pounding away at me.
More photos of the walkways and the raft ride are on the google site mentioned in my last blog, and by the way, the hyperlink works! Just click on the address typed in color. Happy Trails and Happy Viewing!
. Altogther the falls displace 1350 cubic meters of water a second, except in September. This is the rainy season and that number is multiplied by 10 causing all of the extensive network of walkways to be shut down. In 1992 the rainy season was so bad that the walkways were washed away and what you see in my pics is the new and improved network.With Helena guiding me, I spent the morning working through the walkways and taking hundreds of pictures. Looking down at the people riding rafts into the falls convinced me that I had to try it and it was the ride of a lifetime. If you decide to try it - here is my advice, (as usual, learned the hard way).
Wear a bathing suit under your clothes.
Wear tennis shoes.
Be in excellent condition for the walk back up the mountain.
Bring ear plugs. You really do go into the falls and the water is coming at you from all directions.
Don't forget to breathe. I had to keep reminding myself as the cold water was pounding away at me.
More photos of the walkways and the raft ride are on the google site mentioned in my last blog, and by the way, the hyperlink works! Just click on the address typed in color. Happy Trails and Happy Viewing!
Park das Aves in Iguassu Falls, Brazil
An ideal combination for a day trip at Iguassu Falls is to combine the helicopter flight over the Falls with a visit to the Bird Park (Park das Aves). They are both on the Brazil side and the bird park is almost across the street from the helicopter pad. The park has over 3oo tropical birds plus assorted reptiles and monkeys. Most of the birds are in large walk-through aviaries
and this creates an ideal situation for photographers. You do have to be quick, however, because they all seem to be in constant motion. The one exception is the zen-like macaas who seem unflusterred by anything.
If you are interested in more photos of some of the sites mentioned in my blog, here is how to access them. Go to
http://picasaweb.google.com/ramblinme
Click on the picture with the album you want to see. When the next screen comes up, click on "slide show" on the top bar. This is my first attempt at imbedding a hyperlink in a blog, so please forgive if it doesn't work.
The next stop is the Argentinian side of the falls with the long walkways and boat and train rides
and this creates an ideal situation for photographers. You do have to be quick, however, because they all seem to be in constant motion. The one exception is the zen-like macaas who seem unflusterred by anything.If you are interested in more photos of some of the sites mentioned in my blog, here is how to access them. Go to
http://picasaweb.google.com/ramblinme
Click on the picture with the album you want to see. When the next screen comes up, click on "slide show" on the top bar. This is my first attempt at imbedding a hyperlink in a blog, so please forgive if it doesn't work.
The next stop is the Argentinian side of the falls with the long walkways and boat and train rides
Iguassu Falls-More Than Promised
When friends heard that I was planning a trip to Brazil, the most popular recommendation was Iguassu Falls. After seeing them I felt they were more than the recommendations and tour book hype. This was the best part of the entire South American trip and I recommend ALL of the different ways to experience it - by helicopter, by a walking tour through the extensive walkways, by train to the other side of the falls and more walkways, and finally - the ultimate - the raft ride into the falls themselves. The Falls are the genius invention of nature and the people who designed all the ways of seeing it. You can get close in every way possible and yet there is a sense of respect for the natural beauty of the falls and the need to protect it from over-exploitation and commercialism. It becomes a very personal experience that will not be forgotten.
Iguassu Falls and a Visit to Paraguay
With an exchange rate of 1 American Dollar
= 4,672 Paraguay Pesos, a quick trip across the border was the first order of business after I booked a hotel on the Brazil side of the falls. I started the day searching for an English speaking guide. On short notice I had the choice of Japanese or German, and this is how I met Helena (upper left hand pic). It's amazing how quickly the German comes back when you need it. Helena was Brazilian but learned German from Grandparents who had immigrated from Germany.
Her advice was to travel to Paraguay first, before visiting the falls. My luggage had been demolished by the airline and this was a chance to get a cheap suitcase.
The actual border crossing took almost an hour because so many people enter Paraguay every day to work in the electronics industry.
My first impression of the shopping area was of Tijuana Mexico - hundreds of stalls with people hawking their wares. Tube socks and soft drinks seemed to be the hot items of the day. Helena led me into a shopping center type of building and my impression changed. Every type of technology was on sale for unbelievable prices. I wish that I had done my homework ahead of time to buy a laptop. It was techno heaven. If you are visiting the Falls, this side trip is highly recommended if you need laptops or the latest gadget at unheard of prices.
On to the Falls.
= 4,672 Paraguay Pesos, a quick trip across the border was the first order of business after I booked a hotel on the Brazil side of the falls. I started the day searching for an English speaking guide. On short notice I had the choice of Japanese or German, and this is how I met Helena (upper left hand pic). It's amazing how quickly the German comes back when you need it. Helena was Brazilian but learned German from Grandparents who had immigrated from Germany.Her advice was to travel to Paraguay first, before visiting the falls. My luggage had been demolished by the airline and this was a chance to get a cheap suitcase.
The actual border crossing took almost an hour because so many people enter Paraguay every day to work in the electronics industry.
My first impression of the shopping area was of Tijuana Mexico - hundreds of stalls with people hawking their wares. Tube socks and soft drinks seemed to be the hot items of the day. Helena led me into a shopping center type of building and my impression changed. Every type of technology was on sale for unbelievable prices. I wish that I had done my homework ahead of time to buy a laptop. It was techno heaven. If you are visiting the Falls, this side trip is highly recommended if you need laptops or the latest gadget at unheard of prices.
On to the Falls.
Saturday, March 08, 2008
Final Day in Curitiba, Brazil
I scheduled one day to see the local sights in Curitiba
. The large historic down town was a massive cobblestone area blocked off to traffic and filled with shoppers. Like most of the shops in touristy sections, they are turn of the century buildings painted in the bright almost day-glo colors. Of more interest to me was the majestic giant eye of the Oscar Niemeyer Museum. Walking through the ground level area was like walking through an optical illusion of a rolling white wave of ceiling. Through it all, the giant eye stares at you from its perch in the water.
As usual, I got lost wandering around the city and the local people could not have been kinder.
Unique to the city is the unusual local transit system (upper left photo). You pay for your bus ticket to get into the glass tube that protects you from the elements as you wait for your bus. It also has an elevator part for handicapped riders.
As I wrote earlier, the hardest part of leaving Curitiba was leaving the Slaviera Full Jazz, my favorite hotel of the trip. The bottom 2 pics show the lobby and some of the great (and gorgeous) staff. In the final analysis, the hotel was my number one favorite reason for visiting Curitiba.
Next stop - the spectacular Iguassu Falls at the meeting of Paraguay, Argentina, and Brazil.
Hppt Trails until then.
. The large historic down town was a massive cobblestone area blocked off to traffic and filled with shoppers. Like most of the shops in touristy sections, they are turn of the century buildings painted in the bright almost day-glo colors. Of more interest to me was the majestic giant eye of the Oscar Niemeyer Museum. Walking through the ground level area was like walking through an optical illusion of a rolling white wave of ceiling. Through it all, the giant eye stares at you from its perch in the water.As usual, I got lost wandering around the city and the local people could not have been kinder.
Unique to the city is the unusual local transit system (upper left photo). You pay for your bus ticket to get into the glass tube that protects you from the elements as you wait for your bus. It also has an elevator part for handicapped riders.
As I wrote earlier, the hardest part of leaving Curitiba was leaving the Slaviera Full Jazz, my favorite hotel of the trip. The bottom 2 pics show the lobby and some of the great (and gorgeous) staff. In the final analysis, the hotel was my number one favorite reason for visiting Curitiba.
Next stop - the spectacular Iguassu Falls at the meeting of Paraguay, Argentina, and Brazil.
Hppt Trails until then.
Antonina, Brazil
This is the last stop on the tour from Curitiba that began with the train ride and ends on a mini bus to Morretes and finally Antonia. The town of Antonia has a lovely view of the ocean and the streets are lined with electric colored houses and stores, especially in the tourist areas. As always, the prime view of the ocean is from the church. The son of one of my fellow travellers on the bus trip back to Curitiba, was fascinated with me - a chance to try out his few English expressions - "You should be ashamed" and "hello." I won't begin to try to analyze why someone would teach "You should be ashamed" to a kid learning English. Curiouser and curiouser. Happy Trails for now.
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