In India, it is definitely not the destination, it's the journey!!!

The road from Delhi to Agra (best known for the Taj Mahal), is the major highway connecting the two cities. Thousands of tourists travel this route all year long. That's why I was surprised at my experience on the drive between the 2 cities. It redefined chaos. In India cows are considered sacred and they are allowed to roam anywhere they wish, including the middle of a busy highway. Since no one is eating the cows and since there are no fences that keep them in or out, they are everywhere, and sometimes in great numbers. In addition the roads are filled with 1000s of tock tocks; the Indian taxi. It is a three wheeler, the size of a golf cart. It has a tin roof, but no sides. It's an easy target for cars and buses, but the drivers are fearless and oblivious to anything happening around them. In general, no one obeys any traffic rules. The one with the most bravado usually can get in front, but the concepts of traffic lights, signs, or lanes hasn't taken hold yet. Add to the mix 100s of hand pulled carts, camel pulled carts, scores of people aimlessly walking down the road or sitting on the curbs, pigs, sheep, chickens, goats, ducks, etc., walking in the road and you have the grand slam of obstacle courses. Also, everyone is driving at top speed and they are compelled to pass each other. Even though it's only a 4 hour drive, there are numerous toll roads as well as a stop where Bishan the driver had to get out of the car and walk to a government office to pay a road tax. As he left, he warned me to keep the windows rolled up and not to open the doors until he returned. I could not make up the following! A Man with a giant trained brown bear on a leash came up to the car and had the bear do his full range of tricks. Then a guy came over with 2 monkeys in dresses and they went through their repoirtoire. Also, the two acts combined for their encore, with the monkeys riding around on the bears back. They were joined by a snake charmer who played his flute for the cobra (in basket # 1) and the python (in basket # 2). This was followed by a guy who was selling jewelry and he started screeching his nails on the car windows saying over and over again, "Mam, jewelry Mam, please." The last was a guy with shriveled legs who came over to the car and began screeching on the windows on the other side of the car. At one point all of them were screeching on the windows and begging simultaneously. It was my worst nightmare! Bishon finally returned, got in the car, buckled up, and off we went. He turned to me and asked"Was everything OK?" "Just fine," I said......Next stop, the Taj Mahal and Agra (finally). Happy Trails, Marion

India Called

For as long as I can remember India has fascinated me. In college I thought seriously about transferring to the University of New Delhi and even took courses in Sanskrit, the ancient Indian language. However love struck and I married. India was put on hold, until now. It's amazing being here after all these years. India declared its' independence from the British on Aug 15, 1947, but touring Delhi shows that the British presence is still felt. All the roundabouts, driving on the other side of the road, and all of the major government buildings and monuments in Delhi were built by the British. My guide Johann and driver Bishan spent most of a day showing me the standard tour of British buildings, when I asked to see the real India, not the tourist India. Johann seemed pleased at this request and we were off to Jama Masdid/ Chandi Chowk, the huge wholesale market place in old Delhi. It was a ride! The only way that you can really see it is by bicycle driven rickshaw. As you ride along watching everything on earth being sold, the traffic continues to get increasingly conjested. This is because at every turn, the lanes get narrower until there is barely room for one rickshaw to pass. It was a blur of colors, smells of incense, crushing traffic, spider webs of old electrical lines overhead (which do fall at times). The poor rickshaw driver must have weighed 90 pounds and he was vigorously pulling me and the guide. Since I've been eating my way around the world we tipped him an outrageous amount. (I was trying to pay by the pound!) Before leaving Delhi, I was fortunate to see the tomb that was actually the model for the Taj Mahal; Humeyun's Tomb. Instead of white marble, it is made out of red sandstone, but the basic architecture is the same. The ruler of the time was married to a Persian woman, and when he died, she had the Tomb built to house his remains and pay tribute to him. The tomb was the first Persian architecture in India. From each side of the tomb everything is exactly the same; the formal gardens, the entryways, the building layout, as well as the towers. It was interesting to visit this temple first before seeing the beautiful Taj Mahal....
In signing off for Delhi, I say "Namaste" a greeting that my friend Pam taught me many years ago. It has remained my all time favorite greeting. You can use it to say hello, goodbye, or a variety of other things. Basically it means,"May the God that is within me, greet the God that is within you." Namaste, and on to Agra and the Taj Mahal. Marion